Dog Training Blog - Black Belt Dog Training

thinking safety during dog play...

2012-01-07T18:58:00.000-08:00

There's nothing more fun than watching dogs playing with each other. Those of you who know me, know that I am against dog parks, but I love watching 2 or more dogs playing (especially ones that know each other). It's like poetry in motion. Oftentimes I take my dog to a friend's house to play or have a friend bring a dog here so he can enjoy some romping that is good for everyone's soul.

There are a couple of things to consider before letting dogs play, most importantly - do these dogs get along and are they matched in drive / personality. This is something you should be able to see early on in their playing and it shows through their body language. Stiff dogs, dogs that are prone to constant mounting or dominance are not good candidates and should be taught the rules of play before being set free with a well mannered dog. Dogs should bounce and bark, jump, roll and have a loose body posture - these are generally the signs that the play session will go well. I like to monitor dog play for a short while to keep an eye on things and to lend a hand if a dog is being picked on. For those that like to "leave it up to the dog," I would caution you to remember, it only takes one bad experience to potentially turn a good dog bad, and that's not something I want.

Just recently a good friend of mine brought up a great point, and luckily her situation ended ok, so I'd like to share it here. A big consideration when dogs play is whether or not they should wear collars. For the most part I do encourage newly introduced dogs to wear a collar so that I have something that I can grab onto in the event things go sideways. However, as play gets more playful, this can be a problem. My dog generally wears a choke chain and this can present a problem to other dogs playing with him. A dog's teeth can easily get damaged if they connect with the chain, so I like to remove it once I know the dogs are safe together, and if possible I prefer a rope or canvas type collar during play for the safety of the dog's teeth.

What happened to my friend didn't involve damage to her dog's teeth, but much worse. I'd like to point out that she is one of the most dog savvy people I know, so if this could happen to her, it could happen to anyone. Her dogs were playing in the backyard (wearing their collars - the type of collar is important, as you'll see in a moment) when she heard a yelp, she looked outside and saw a tangled mess. One dog's lower jaw was tangled in the other dog's collar. It seems that his jaw got stuck in the collar and then the collar twisted over so there was no way he could remove his jaw. What made this even worse is that the cinching on his lower jaw created a binding on the other dog's neck - almost choking him to death.

As I said, my friend is a very competent and dog savvy person, so she thought clearly enough to run into her house and get a pair of scissors and she was able to cut the collar off of the choking dog's neck. If it had been a choke chain she could have lost her dog (possibly both dogs). Luckily, in this situation, no dog was hurt, and although it's a one in a million situation, it is something we should be aware of- which is why I'm sharing it here. I've heard countless stories, but never this one. I previously had a very different concern for dogs wearing collars during play, I now know another thing to watch out for and want to ask you to share this post with all of your friends.

I wish you and your four legged friends all the best - always!

Robert Cabral

Overcoming Aggression - a different perspective

2011-12-19T19:14:00.000-08:00

Recently I was called to help a dog that exhibited some aggression issues. The owner had already hired several trainers and a clinical behaviorist. Everyone was concerned about the dog's aggression and offered different views on how to handle it. The overwhelming consensus was that the dog needed to be controlled when outside and should possibly be muzzled.

I observed the dog for a while, and most importantly I observed the interaction between the owner and the dog. It was so simple to see that this dog was lacking in confidence and because of that aggression issues were starting to fester. The family has two dogs, both are free to play, and needless to say there have been more than a few fights between these two dogs.

I saw the older dog dominating the younger dog, but when the older dog was restrained, the younger dog would taunt the older one. One of the primary issues for concern was that the owners "allowed the dogs to figure out their ranks." This is something I strongly urge people against. I believe in drawing the lines of rank with my dogs and it is very clear to them that there is one rank and that is mine.

Watching the owner play with the dog showed me a clear sign of what the dog was looking for, and that was structure. Learning to play tug was the first thing we did and it opened the eyes of both dogs ( as well as the humans ). First and foremost we taught the dogs the rules for the game and then we played the game. Within a few short minutes the dog's body-language completely changed. In fact, when we switched the game and allowed the younger dog to play, she got it almost instantly. What I found most interesting was the fact that the taunting between them was much easier to control.

Dogs that have aggression issues must be examined closely. I truly believe that it is the rarest of dogs that have truly dominant based aggression. So many dogs don't even have true aggression, but instead suffer from a lack of understanding of what we (the humans) expect of them. If a dog is unclear of what it is we expect, and we don't make it very clear, there are a host of issues that can develop in the dog.

All behavioral issues should be examined deeply before drawing a conclusion, and the key to solving the issue lies in tracing the dog's relationship with his primary human back to where the trouble began.
Does the dog have a strong bond with the human?
Is the human able to clearly communicate what it is they expect of the dog?
Is the human able to give the dog a "fair" correction to "block" any unwanted behavior?

And when I say a "fair" correction, I mean fair to the dog. Oftentimes we place our human expectations on a dog that is not capable of dealing with them no less "understanding"them. This includes yelling, nagging, explaining, pulling on leashes and so much more. The key thing in "correcting" a behavior oftentimes involves preventing the dog from performing the behavior that is causing the problem. Yelling at the dog does little more than exacerbate the issue.

If you have a dog that has some behavioral issues one of the best things to do is to go back to square one. Establish a fair relationship between you and your dog. Be certain that he understands that you are there for him and you have his best interests at heart. This involves allowing him to be a dog, but not allowing him to do things that can cause him harm, in short - don't let him do anything stupid. If you do, he will suffer - and so will you.

Please read the articles on the site under Dog Training Articles to get a better understanding of what you can do to build a fair relationship with your dog.

Best regards,

Robert Cabral

Beat 'em or Treat 'em - it's up to you

2011-10-17T12:24:00.000-07:00

I'm really surprised to see how many people are against using treats to train dogs. It seems that there's sort of a stigma associated with it. I can tell you as a person who trains all types of dogs, there is not one way to train all dogs, but treats are a good place to start.

Everything I do with dogs starts with a treat and a toy, where it goes from there is up to the dog. Robert Cabral

Recently I was teaching at a shelter and a dog was brought to my attention that was thrown out of another training program because he was a bit sensitive to be touched on his rear. He was also a dog that was in a nearly shut down emotional state. They said no one could get him to sit. When I asked the method they used to try and teach him, they simply stated a prong collar - and when that didn't work, they pushed down on his butt. Or at least they tried. Anytime someone would reach for his butt, he would circle to get away. Well, that doesn't really teach a dog "how" to sit, it just makes him sit to avoid getting yanked or pushed. Another thing to bear in mind is that if you PUSH down on a dog's butt, he may or may not sit, but one thing for sure is, he's gonna resist that push and his SIT will be sloppy.

I worked with this dog for about 5 - 10 minutes and had him sitting without ever touching his butt (or yanking his neck with a prong collar). I will go on record here to say I have NO issue with prong collars (I occasionally will use one on my dog) or even remote collars. I do have a problem when we use these tools to teach a behavior that can be taught without it. There is a saying in Chinese,
"Don't use a sledgehammer to remove a fly from your friends forehead."
This is similar to teaching a dog to sit with a prong collar. Prong collars are a useful tool in several circumstances, but the dog has to be conditioned to the prong and then it will work. Just putting a prong on the dog and yanking is equivalent to me asking you the square root of 11 and when you pause, I hit you in the face with a frying pan. If you don't know the answer, the smash in the face won't make you get it. That is what people seem to think. If a dog doesn't know what you want, forcing him won't make him learn.

We want to use tools such as prong collars and remote collars to limit the amount of force we need to put onto the dog, not increase it. A correction with a prong collar or remote can be more directed and not as forceful and therefore create a more balanced relationship. Unfortunately, I don't know but a few people who really grasp that concept.

So I say, you can beat em or treat em, that choice is up to you, only you and your dog will know which road you choose. YOU must however be able to face yourself at some point and answer the inevitable question, "Was I fair in my training?" Is this the way you would want to be trained by someone who could easily dominate you? Would you prefer when someone is teaching you that they use a compassionate approach? If that is the case, wouldn't it be worth it to start with that same approach with your dog?

Teaching your dog what you want him to do is a process, not a chore. Make it fun and educational. Using food and toy rewards can make it an experience that will carry over into your relationship outside of training. All good training should carry over into your day to day relationship.

Board and Train - Good idea?

2011-10-01T18:08:00.000-07:00

One of the most common questions I get is, "Can I just leave my dog with you to train?" The concept seems to be that if you leave your dog with a trainer, they will magically "fix" all the problems your dog has and return him to you "good as new." This is a great idea, however, your dog is not a car and there are no "broken parts to replace."

Sending your dog off to be trained by someone has its upsides and downsides. The odds weight heavy on the downsides. Remember, someone who has your dog to train has a limited amount of time to get your dog in line and probably has many other dogs there that need to be "fixed" as well. How he will train your dog will be something that you have no clue on and no control over either.

I would never leave my dog with someone that I didn't know and hope that the referral from a friend was a good one. There are countless stories that you can find on the internet about poor practices by boarding facilities. Remember, your dog has no voice, so he can't complain to you about the bad stuff that possibly happened when he was away at camp. Teaching a dog a behavior is something that is generally based on a relationship with the person asking. Read my article on building relationships before training. This takes time. Time is not something that someone has that is taking your dog in for training.

Furthermore, there is a whole different issue to address and that is how dogs think. One common notion is that dogs that are aggressive can be sent away to someone that will fix the aggression and then return them to the person who couldn't control them before. So let's get this straight. You have a dog that is aggressive, you can't control him and the dog obviously is aware of this. So you send him away to someone who can control him and does (by any means necessary). This person then "fixes" your dog and teaches him that he shouldn't be aggressive, and then returns this dog to you - the person that couldn't get the dog to not be aggressive.

What are the chances that the dog had a magic switch thrown in his brain that wiped away the desire to stop being aggressive. The chances are one in a million. More than likely what happened is this:
The trainer taught your dog not to be aggressive and showed him that he can not get away with being aggressive in his (the trainers) presence... (not necessarily a bad thing)
The trainer returns the dog to you and while in both of your presence the dog understands that he cannot get away with anything, so he doesn't try.
UNTIL the trainer is gone and the dog sees that he is in the same place as before and actually CAN get away with it -and does.

Dog training is based on relationship only. Sending a dog away to teach him some basic obedience stuff like sit, stay and come is fine, but also something that you can so easily do yourself. However, complex behaviors that are hard-wired in the dog's brain need to be addressed a bit differently. The dog needs to see a change in the way he is acting and there needs to be repercussions for his actions. Whoever delivers those repercussions will win the dog's respect.

Remember, repercussions don't necessarily mean being hit, it means repercussions. Some dogs needs corrections in the line of withholding rewards, others need more. This is something to discuss with a qualified trainer or behaviorist. The best recommendation that I can give you is to build a solid and fair relationship with your dog and be certain that your dog understands what it is you ask of him and what it is you will not accept from him.

Once a dog understands the rules and he sees that the rules are fair, he will comply. Save your money on sending your dog away. If you don't have the time to train your dog yourself, you probably won't have the time to take care of the dog the way he needs to be taken care of - it might be best for a person like that to not get a dog in the first place. It takes 5-10 minutes - 2x a day to train a dog. Probably less time than you spend on reading email.

Dog Training Facts and Figures

2011-07-12T08:33:00.000-07:00

take a look and see how you compare.

http://www.pet365.co.uk/blog/dog-training-information/

Friendly Dogs vs. Neutral Dogs

2011-07-04T18:26:00.000-07:00

http://blackbeltdogtraining.com/dog_training_articles.html

I wrote an article that I think is worth mentioning here. It's a topic that oftentimes leads dog owners into trouble by trying to do the right thing. Friendly Dogs vs. Neutral Dogs

We are constantly lectured that our dogs should be friendly to all people and other dogs. What happens when that that can't be done and more importantly, what happens when that has a negative impact?

I address this in the article Friendly Dogs vs. Neutral Dogs. I believe that all dogs have a right to exist, and with the proper owners, all dogs can. All dogs do not need to be friendly, but they should be neutral. The big difference is that dogs can be independent and not want to play with other dogs without being condemmed for it. Heck, there are a lot of people that don't get along with others and they do a fine job surviving.

In order to be fair to our dogs, we must see them as individuals with independent personalities and quirks. We should strive to accept these differences and, as long as they don't prove dangerous, allow them to be. Training our dogs to be dog friendly against their will is often a recipe for disaster, and many times it is best to use caution in teaching our dogs that all other dogs are dog friendly.

Please take a moment to read the article as it will shed some light on an issue that divides many dog owners, and understand that I am writing this as an advocate for the dogs, not humans. My concern is primarily focused on the problems dogs face when human emotion and logic is imposed on them.

Robert Cabral

It Means What it Means - Not What You Think it Means...

2011-06-19T09:09:00.000-07:00

All too often people will analyze a dog's behavior and draw conclusions from what they see. Such as a dog that flinches when you go to pet his head must have been beaten, dogs that are afraid of men were probably abused by a man or dogs that are afraid of loud sounds were traumatized as puppies.

As much as it is a novel approach to coming to a conclusion, more often than not it has nothing to do with anything. That is why I say, "it means what it means, not what you think it means." In order to come to a solution for the dog, we must move away from our drawn assumptions and focus on the issue at hand. I've dealt with countless situations with dogs that have fears and solved them by helping the dog to overcome the problem and not wasting time on trying to figure out if and where the root lies.

Certain dogs are high energy and are more likely to be spooked by the slightest sound or environmental stimuli. If this is the case, we need to "de-sensitize" the dog. Let's take for example skateboards, bicycles and baby carriages. Dogs that have a high degree of prey drive (or high energy) are likely to be startled by something rolling by them quickly and may either startle (pull away) or incite (give chase) to the object. Thinking that the dog suffered some great trauma is not going to help us or the dog. The fact is that we need to focus on the solution.

The easiest way to go about helping the dog in this situation is to do it in a controlled / safe manner that is fair to the dog. Some people opt for throwing the dog head first into the pool to teach him to swim, but I differ here. If your dog has a fear of things, introduce them slowly in a controlled manner.

My dog had a fear of baby carriages and skateboards, so the first thing I did was buy a used skateboard and baby carriage at a local thrift shop and park them in the backyard. Every day we would walk by these objects until they became "normal." At that point we could start playing near them, occasionally throwing his favorite toy near them and waiting for him to "go and get it." Eventually I could move the item (skateboard / baby carriage) while we were engaged in a game of tug or I could feed him near the items.

After a few days or so of doing this I took the skateboard with me on our walks and moved the exercise to more distracting environments. Remember, I always start desensitization on a fair ground, a place where the dog feels safe, with someone he trusts. Having a stranger do this is not a good idea. Your dog trusts you and is leery of the skateboard. If a stranger introduces something he doesn't know or trust and you are not helping him through this, you can destroy the relationship with your dog. Your dog should have enough trust in you to move toward you even if something is awry. My dog trusts me and not skateboards, so I use the trust he has for me to introduce something he may be afraid of. On our walk I would roll the skateboard and act as if nothing happened. If he responded neutral or positively, he got a treat or a lot of praise. If he "spooked" I did nothing. I ignored his negative behavior because it was not what I was looking for.

Not too long after embarking on this exercise I could put him on a down-stay and skateboard right in front of him or roll the skateboard past him. The key thing is the be certain during this phase not to allow your dog to be harmed inadvertently by the item: for example bumping him with the skateboard or rolling it over his tail. The more he sees that the skateboard can be near him and not touch him or cause him any harm, the easier it will be for him to accept the item as harmless.

Desensitization takes time and a lot of patience. Do NOT rush this. It may be only a few minutes a day for several weeks to do this exercise. The key thing is to ALWAYS end on a positive note. Don't make the mistake of feeling that your dog is "just too scared" and ending the exercise while he is scared. If the item goes away while he is scared, he learns that the "scared" behavior made the item go away. He must understand that the item causes him NO HARM and that being OK with the item makes it go away. I suggest using only treats and toys and praise for this exercise. Do not use any compulsion to "force" your dog to be near an item to MAKE him see that its OK. This is not a good idea by any means. This process, done properly, takes time and thereby builds a solid relationship between you and your dog. Take your time and keep it positive. The results will speak for themselves and carry over into so many other aspects of training.

why should your dog listen to you?

2011-05-26T15:14:00.000-07:00

Among the most frustrating things people encounter is their dog not listening to them. Generally to solve this, people will yell a little louder when the dog doesn't respond the first time. The irony in this is the stupidity of the human. A dog can hear a flies wings flapping at 10 meters. So you think that yelling the command a little louder will break through that impenetrable barrier? NO, he's ignoring you!

There are two reasons for this:
1. the dog really doesn't know what you want - which means you didn't teach him.
2. He doesn't feel he has to do what you're asking him to do.

Let's look at these two situations separately:

1. If you have not taught your dog what a command means, for example COME, how can you expect him to do it? Remember, teaching him something means proofing it - even under distractions. Teaching a command to a dog is a series of exercises to be sure that the dog understands exactly what is expected of him. These lessons must be clear and they must be fair to the dog. Simply yanking the dog to come or popping his leash to get him to jump, is not teaching. Motivating your dog to do something and making it fun, challenging and rewarding at the same time - that is teaching. A dog requires several follow ups to cement an idea in his mind, then he needs periodic refreshers. Just because he knows it today, doesn't necessarily mean he'll know it tomorrow. Teaching your dog is like going to the gym and dieting: if you attain your desired results and suddenly stop going, you stop looking good. In a more clear comparative, imagine going to Greece for an extended stay and learning Greek. All the while you are there, you are able to comprehend what people mean when they speak to you. Once you are back home and a few years have passed, your understanding will have faded too unless you've kept it up. So it is with your dog's understanding.

This is the fault in people who insist on sending their dogs away to training and expect the dog to be perfect when he comes back. Even if he is, it will begin to fade after some time goes by. While at training his commands were taught and reinforced. You may keep up with it for a few days, weeks, or months, but then its back to the old system.

2. If your dog knows what you want him to do but refuses to do it, you have a breakdown in your relationship. This is all-too-common and I see it all the time. The primary reason a dog does what you want is because of the relationship that you've established with him. How is this relationship defined? Is it all about fun, punishment, structure or none of the above? Dogs must trust their person in order to perform commands willfully. If a dog is raised in a fair manner, given good structure and fair lessons to learn and has a solid bond with his human, he will be more than willing to listen and obey. If your relationship is all about fun and no structure, he will see you commands as a game and listen when he deems it fun. If, on the other hand, he sees you as an authoritarian he may look for an opportunity to get away with something because you can't reinforce what you are asking for and its his nature to test you.

The best trained dogs are those that have a solid bond with their humans. A solid bond is based on a balance of structure and fun. That means I will make it fun to follow my commands and reward the dog for positive actions. I will also enforce what I say once I'm clear the dog knows what I'm asking for. Most often this is not too necessary, but when it becomes necessary, you should be sure to do it. That is not to say that you beat a dog for not coming when called. It does mean that if he decides not to come, you go get him and make him come. This can be done with a fair leash correction and bringing him to you. We don't correct the dog once he comes if we didn't go get him. If we're too lazy to go get him and wait for him to come and keep yelling COME COME, then we have to be satisfied with the sloppy results of our training. If he doesn't do what is asked, we need to teach him or remind him of what it means.

The key thing here is to be aware of how we relate to our dogs and how our dogs relate to us. Is this a relationship based on fairness, or are we the ALPHA DOG that dictates our dog's lives? We should be in charge, but we don't need to be dictators. Our relationship should be based on fun and fairness..

It's Really Not Funny When Your Dog Acts that Way

2011-05-14T18:36:00.000-07:00

Among my long list of things that annoy me about dog owners is the ignorance people show towards their own dogs mis-behavings.

Just today I was walking my dog at the park and a couple walking two small dogs passed me. Their dogs started to growl and lunge at my dog, a 65lb shepherd. I looked at them and wondered what they would do. Would they correct their dogs for doing something that could cost them their lives? NO, they laughed - because it is so cute. Now, if my large dog would show that behavior toward a small dog it would not be funny. The problem is that aggressive and dominant behavior is not OK, funny or acceptable no matter what size dog you have.

If your dog shows aggressive behavior toward another dog and that dog attacks your dog, it's really not the attacking dogs fault. No matter how "cute" you may find your dog's behavior, another dog probably won't share your sense of humor. These types of dominant behaviors often cost small dogs their lives. And this is the fault of the owners who allow their dogs to continue this behavior. Dogs see dogs as dogs. Nutty behavior is not excused because "it's just a cute little mini tea cup yorki-poo." If a dog feels threatened, he will attack to protect himself. Aggression is a bad thing in small dogs and big dogs alike and it should be corrected. Dogs that have issues with other dogs should be trained by a professional that has experience in dealing with this issue. Be sure the person you hire is a qualified trainer, because a bad trainer can make the problem worse - much worse.

The most important thing to remember is that lunging, growling and aggressive actions are not OK. Not at all! NEVER!

Please be responsible for your dog and protect them, they depend on you. You are all they have. Don't let young puppies get used to bad manners because "they are only puppies." These puppies will grow into dogs and the behavior will be much harder to solve once it is ingrained through your re-enforcement. And remember, by not training, teaching or correcting you are enforcing the behavior the dog is showing. They don't suddenly learn at a magical age that things they did in their youth are suddenly no longer OK.

Some simple training and socialization as puppies will give your dog the tools to have a long, healthy, happy and safe life. And if your dog is already grown, some time spent teaching him structure through a fair training regimen will be the best help you can give your dog.

why is training with food so bad?

2011-05-04T16:14:00.000-07:00

I'm perplexed at the amount of trainers I see polarized in their approach to dog training: either all compulsion based or all reward based. I saw a post the other day on facebook by a trainer who boasted of how he was able to get a few dogs, that had aggression issues, to sit together. It's sort of like posting, "Look how I was able to get these guys to paint my house, and I never paid them."

The fact that some trainers brag that they can get dogs to do something without rewarding them is a cheap shot. On the other hand there are those trainers that will nag a dog to death, constantly trying to force treats and toys on them in order to get them to comply.

People always comment on how my dog looks at me in adoration. He does Schutzhund and has a great bite, he's strong as can be and I can tell you that he's been trained with treats and toys. Yes, he's received a correction or two, but never in training. So many of these people who train using compulsion methods "do" get their dogs to comply, but you can see that "compliance" look on their faces (the dog's face) from across the field.

My point is simple; dogs should be treated with respect and compassion. Everything in training should start with a toy or a treat and let the dog take it from there. I even take this approach with aggression. If a dog can be distracted or deterred from aggression using a toy or treat, that is the right approach. Where I differ with other trainers is that I don't believe in two things:
1. nagging the dog to death to get his compliance when dealing with dominnace or aggression
2. giving up on a dog if the treat and toy method fails.

That being said, I rest my case on the statement, "What's so bad about using treats to train a dog?"

More on Raw Feeding....

2011-04-20T13:08:00.000-07:00

I have just made some slight modifications, mainly typos, to the two articles I've written on raw feeding. However, I'd like to take a moment to address some issues that people are not paying attention to.

It seems that people think raw feeding is plopping down some raw meat and letting the dog have at it. There are some issues I have with this. Yes, your dog can survive on this, in fact your dog can eat garbage and survive, but that is no reason to do it. Yes, dogs will survive on just eating meat and those that argue that raw meat is all your dog would get in the wild are partially right. That also makes them partially wrong. Remember a roaming dog will come across berries, vegetation, and a litany of other things that he will eat including grass. Furthermore, giving your dog all he needs to survive is not allowing him to thrive, and if we love our dogs, we should want them to thrive.

This being said, I am particularly upset with people who make raw feeding into a simple "put the meat down and walk away" exercise. If that is what you are planning, keep your dog on commercial (hopefully a good quality) food. If you care for your dog, consider doing all you can do to help him thrive. This involves supplements, vegetables and mixing enough of a variety into your dog's daily diet to keep him happy and interested. Mealtime in my house is always a celebration. My dogs love whatever it is they are gonna get fed, mainly because I put effort into what I feed them.

Remember if you want your dog to live a healthy, happy life, give him what he needs. Fresh organic meats and vegetables as well as supplements to help him thrive should be considered for all dogs. In this sense I am partially correcting what I said in my first article where I mentioned balance in the diet. I'm not saying everything should be weighed out, but I am saying that there should be a variety to the food you feed your dog.

If this is not something you are prepared to do, consider some of the high quality pet foods available. They are not cheap, but I hope your dog is worth it. There are many more available now than even a few years ago. I've researched and found several good quality foods that I would, and have, fed my dog. Furthermore, as I wrote in my RAW DIET part 2, you should consider supplementing your raw diet with a good quality canned or kibble food occasionally. This will make it easy for you in the event of an emergency or if you are traveling.

if you're feeding raw, think of this...

2011-03-12T16:16:00.000-08:00

There are more and more people making the move to raw feeding their dogs, and many others are feeding theirs home cooked foods. All much healthier for your dogs than so much of the garbage in the processed pet foods available at grocery and pet stores.

There is one important thing to consider, and I've been in this predicament a few times. When an emergency strikes, you lose power, you need to travel or you just run out of food, what can you do? I suggest having a back up stock of some high quality dog food that will hold you over. Furthermore, it's a good idea to occasionally give your dog a little bit of this food "as a treat" to give him the acquired taste.

I generally keep a small bag of very high quality dog food in my cupboard for just such a cause. Imagine a natural disaster strikes and you have to evacuate, or you need to take an emergency trip. If you don't have time to plan ahead, this is a good back up plan.

Research some of the best dog foods available and get a small bag or two and a few cans of wet. The brands will probably not be as familiar sounding as the ones advertised on TV. The best people to ask are often times trainers, holistic pet food stores and friends who really love and know their dogs. The food gernally has a good shelf life and may save your dogs life.

It's not an 8 week program

2011-03-07T19:54:00.000-08:00

One of the biggest mistakes people make is assuming that they can get their dog perfectly trained in an 8 week course at the local recreation center. Nothing could be further from the truth. Many also believe that sending their dog off to boot camp is the answer.

I find that people are so lazy when it comes to training their dog that they become very unrealistic. Training your dog is like exercise:
1. you can't have someone do it for you
2. you've gotta be serious about it
3. it may take 8 weeks to see results, but those results will disappear when you stop
4. you've gotta be realistic. you may never look like Arnold Schwarzenegger, and your dog may never be a champion.

I've written countless articles and blog posts on the importance of a good relationship with your dog, and if you don't have that, your training is gonna suffer. If you think having a trainer come by a few times is gonna do the trick, think again. Your dog sees the trainer as someone who is going to teach and enforce the commands, you however, he sees as a push over.

What is so unfair is that the dog suffers. We want the dog to come to us when we call him, but we've never practiced enough with him to teach him what it is we want, or what COME means. And, if we've taught him, we haven't proofed it under various circumstances.

Training your dog is a relationship, not a training exercise. We start out by showing our dogs that we are fair, we are firm and that we have his best interests at heart. We teach him what we want, we make sure he understands it 100%, then we enforce what we ask him to do. That is to say, if he doesn't do it, we make him do it. There is no room for negotiations. Listening to us is his responsibility, as it is our responsibility to care for him, love him and respect him for his entire life.

If we can strip away the emotions behind it, we can be very fair to our dogs. We can expect certain behaviors from our dog and we can be realistic in what we can teach our dogs. Seeing our relationship with our dog as a lifelong commitment is the fairest way to approach it. If you have a fight with your spouse and apologize, you know it's not going to carry over into the next fight. You may have to suck up all over again. Your relationship with your dog should be a fun one. Once you learn how to train your dog and you teach your dog how to learn, practice constantly. Every day for a few minutes, even if only to have your dog sit before you feed him or before he walks out the door. Be fastidious, be realistic, but above all, BE KIND to your dog.

Canine Insitinct vs Human Emotion

2011-03-01T10:40:00.001-08:00

There are countless thousands of dogs living (waiting to die) in shelters right now that wish they had been given the opportunity to learn right from wrong. These dogs were given up on by their humans, their trainers and by society as a whole. They will pay the ultimate price – their lives. If only the humans could step outside of their emotions and give the dog the strength, structure and love he dog needs instead of what the humans think he needs, so many of these lives could be spared.

I've just written a new article titled; Emotion vs. Instinct to cover this topic. Please read it at:
www.blackbeltdogtraining.com

Thank you.
Robert Cabral

Always end your training session on a positive note...

2011-02-07T19:23:00.000-08:00

The message we send our dog in training is one of the most important ways he will relate to us. Many people make a common mistake in dog training and that is putting away a dog that is acting up or not getting the lesson we are trying to teach.

To start with, remember that a dog will imprint on the strongest thing he has experienced. For example, if a dog growls at another dog and we grab him tell him NO and he keeps growling and we then put him inside the house or in another room or back in the car, the very last lesson or experience he had was his acting up, and getting away with it. But we didn't let him get away with it, we may say. That is the human side, the dog's mind sees it very differently. Whatever the last thing the dog did, especially if it may seem frustrating, is what he takes as his lesson. That is why, during training, we always end on a good note.

Many times when I am teaching a new behavior, I make certain that I start with something the dog knows, then work into a new behavior, and if I will end the session on the new behavior, I make certain that the dog did it right before we end. What if he doesn't get it? I don't stop. I continue to work with him until he does, and when he does I make him repeat it. I will NEVER put away a dog that is confused. The confusion is what the dog will take away from the lesson, and that is never a good thing.

Remember also that in training complex actions to dogs, we break them apart and teach them step by step. I once knew a trainer who specialized in scent detection dogs. Her ability to break things up would give the dog a fun lesson while learning complex behaviors, it didn't matter what the dog was learning, learning was FUN. Learning should always be fun for the dog. Whether we are teaching our dog complex actions such as Schutzhund, SAR or just teaching them to sit, it's all the same to the dog... keep it fun and always end it on a positive note. If the dog requires a correction in a lesson, we never end there. Every session either ends on a positive performance of the behavior we taught or a game of fetch or tug.

The last thing you want your dog to remember is that the training session was fun. This way he will be happy to start training again. When training becomes a chore for your dog, it will become a nightmare for you.

RAW Feeding #2

2011-01-27T14:30:00.000-08:00

I thought to add some thoughts to the previous Raw Feeding article I wrote. It seems that some people don't understand that just slopping down a chicken back or some ground raw meat for your dog is not enough. Just like people can't survive on spaghetti, your dog relies on your for his nutrition.

I hope that I can shed some light on this situation with both of these articles. Please read #1 first if you have not yet done so.

http://blackbeltdogtraining.com/dog_training_articles.html

All the best,
Robert

too many no's - not enough yes'

2011-01-19T19:13:00.000-08:00

Remember when you were a kid learning stuff and people would always say, "No, not like that - NO!" ...and when you finally did it the right way you didn't get that big "YES!" that you thought you deserved. Well, dog training is sort of like that for your dog.

The most important thing in dog training, as I wrote in a previous blog post, is to keep it short and keep it positive. Always end on a good note and make it a positive experience for your dog. In this post I'd like to point out that when your dog is learning something you need to focus on the Yes' over the No's.

The easiest way to do that is to make sure your dog doesn't fail, and if he's about to fail - don't let him. A great example of this occurred the other day when I was working with a dog in a program that I work with called k9 Connection. There was this dog that just couldn't sit without falling down. Every time people would tell her to sit, she would fall over and want belly rubs. When she did this people laughed and that energy reinforced the behavior. I do this, and I'm getting you to laugh... that's all positive, that must be what you want.... Then, at one point it was time to "get serious." Now every time they said SIT and the dog didn't sit they would say NO. At one point someone came over and tried pushing the dogs butt down. After a bit of force the dog did it and received a YES, but then she fell down and was reprimanded with a NO.

Needless to say this dog was confused. The problem is they were giving the dog the opportunity to fail. And every time she failed, she heard NO. Her head must have been spinning. I must say that for the most part I am not a big fan of pushing a dog's butt down to get them to sit. There are other ways, but I'm not discussing that technique here. What I would like to address is the behavior and the reinforcement. The dog had probably heard 10 NO's to one YES. Not good odds if you're trying to make the training experience a positive one.

I devised a simple solution that would prohibit her from failing. I simply straddled her, keeping my legs snug against her back legs. Now she could not go side to side, and with my hand on her collar (facing the same direction as her) I was able to guide her into position quite simply. When she did it the first time she heard a resounding YES! We repeated and again YES! once again - YES! Each YES was met with a treat. The dog could not fail because I would not let her. All of these positive reinforcements set a deep imprint on her mind.

Keeping a dog from failing is one of the most positive ways to train behaviors that are causing confusion in a dog's mind. Some people refer to this as blocking. The important thing to bear in mind is that the dog is "made to succeed." By doing this in a "non-forceful" way is the key. Yanking a dog into a position makes them respond in a cowering way. Yes, the dog will sit when you say SIT. But the manner in which the dog sits will be quite evident that he was trained in a "less than positive" method.

It is my goal to make all training experiences positive ones for the dog (and the human too). It is important to be able to take apart a technique and figure out how to get the dog to understand it. The dog must hear a majority of positive affirmations during training. If there are too many No's, the dog will begin to resent training and the results will show.

If the dog doesn't do the technique right after a second time, chances are he's confused. It's your job to guide him to success. This can be done through taking the time to understand what is confusing him and guiding him toward what it is you want. When he does the command correctly he should feel your excitement. When you say NO, its not an end of the world NO.. it should just be a NOPE... that's not what I was looking for. On the other-hand, the YES, should be an exuberant YES!

If you make training fun for your dog, you'll have a much better trained dog and one that looks forward to training. There's nothing my dog would rather do than train. The reason for that is because I always keep it short, keep him wanting more and I always focus on making it a positive experience and he sees me excited when he does things correctly.

Keep it Short - Keep it Positive

2010-12-31T17:02:00.000-08:00

People often make mistakes in dog training that adversly counter-condition their dogs. Training should above all be Fun! If it's not fun, the dog sees it as a chore and will try to avoid it. If you think "forcing" training onto your dog is a good idea, think again.

When I open the door that leads to our training area and my dog thinks it's time to train, he bolts out to the yard and sits waiting for me to begin his training.

I see people all the time coercing their dogs into training and dragging it out long after the dog is "finished." Training sessions with my dog are short, usually around 10 minutes and always end on a positive note. I NEVER end my training sessions on a failure. In other words, if my dog is "not getting it," I will end the session once he does get-it. If you end the session when you or your dog are frustrated, the training experience is negative and that is what the dog takes with him to digest. When I end, my dog is walking tall because I just praised and rewarded him for a job well done.... that is what my dog takes with him.

It's best to structure training in the following manner.

1. Start out your training session with something positive, something your dog knows.
2. Praise your dog and get him motivated.
3. New techniques should be introduced when your dog has a positive attitude and knows you're on his side. He's more willing to trust and try something new if he's previously succeeded at something.
4. If your dog catches on quickly, teach him the new lesson and make sure he gets it right 3 times, then you can end your training for this session. If he's having a very hard time getting it, end the session with something he knows. For example, if I'm teaching my dog a recall and he doesn't seem to be getting it, I'll put a line on my dog and show him what I want by guiding him into the recall. I will not end the session by saying, "The heck with it, maybe he'll get it tomorrow." I can guide him, then praise him so that his last memory will be having completed the task (even though it was with guidance).

The next time I take my dog out to train, I'll add this "lesson" right after something he already knows, perhaps a "DOWN."

If he seems to get things quickly, then I end the session with a game of tug... but a very short one. I generally play tug with my dog all throughout the training. I use the tug as a reward for a job well done almost every time he completes a task properly.

So remember, if you want your dog to learn and enjoy the training process, keep it short and keep it positive. Better 2, 10 minute training sessions that leave your dog wanting more than one 20 minute session which leaves your dog exhausted and frustrated.

same play, different characters...

2010-12-10T14:43:00.000-08:00

I'm posting an email exchange that I think should be read and noted.

I find that people are so often surprised when a dog acts like a dog. It seems we think that a dog is just going to "get it" when it comes to good behavior. Dog behavior is a constant task that should be dealt with. Just like we don't assume the car will continue to go straight when we take our hand off of the steering wheel, we should also not assume that the dog we brought home yesterday will be fine. If the dog is fine today, great, give him structure and training and monitor him. Show him what you expect and what you won't tolerate.

Here is the email, I've eliminated the personal info and left the important details:

from the person: I need advice. In mid October I pulled dog, a female pittie pup, 6 to 9 months old, at the request of a woman who has experience with pitties. She has one olderpittie girl and several cats.

Initially the dog got along well with the established family. Twice she acted out a little, once toward the woman and once toward the older pit, but it was nothing serious.

Today she killed one of the cats and, when the older pittie went to see what was going on, the pup attacked her and went for her throat. The older pittie has a large wound in her throat and a hunk out of her nose and it was not worse only because the dogs had just come in from a walk and the puppy still had her leash on, so the woman pulled her back.

I had this dog at my home overnight, before her transport, and she did not display any aggression toward my dogs or my cats. The only thing she seemed agitated about was when I tried to touch her hindquarters.

my reply: It goes to the same place that I always see.. structure can't be seen in a couple of days and even if it appears as though it's there, it must be continuously reinforced.

The dog needs to understand her place in the family / pack from day one. If this doesn't happen, for one reason or another, the dog starts to establish their own idea of structure, and at some point will act out.

I think many in rescue are reluctant to do this because of the emotions of "the rescued/abused dog," but we see over and over again the results.

All a trainer is going to do is charge her money and make the dog do basic obedience. The dog needs to see structure and discipline from the owner, not the trainer. The dog should be kept on a short leash (metaphorically speaking) and given freedom in small doses as it earns it.

please note that her email said that the dog acted out twice, but it was no big deal. Its these "no beg deals" that dogs get away with that allow them to act out in a BIG DEAL.. by then its usually too late, as in this case... Any small infraction must be dealt with immediately...

It's not my goal to criticize people, but to help them and the dogs they deal with. I spend more time at shelters and giving free advice than I spend charging for my behavioral services. I put my money where my mouth is. Those that spout off their opinions and can't back it up, should spend some time learning what it takes to get dogs to live cohesively with other dogs and families.

Saving a dog is more than just pulling it out of a shelter...

Robert Cabral

The Problem with the Prong....

2010-12-04T20:14:00.000-08:00

Many people refer to prong collars as "power steering" for your dog. This is all fine and good, but you should know how to handle your power steering.

To start with, just putting a prong collar on your dog and not understanding that it is a collar that must only be used for corrections is starting out on the wrong foot. So many people expect the tool to work all by itself without first learning how to use it. As if by some miracle the dog will feel the collar and say, "Well, now that I have this collar on everything is clear." It doesn't work that way.

Since this is not an article on the proper use of the prong collar (I will hopefully get to writing that soon), I'll keep this post short. I do feel it is important to address a very important aspect of the prong collar. Many people think that the prong is a great way to curb aggression in a dog. Certain dogs will respond to a correction with a prong collar and settle while others will be pushed further into drive. That is to say, there are certain dogs that will become "more aggressive" when you yank on the leash attached to the prong collar. This aggression can be focused on the other dog (or whatever the dog was showing aggression toward in the first place) or it may be back at you the handler.

If you are going to use a prong collar, I suggest you do some research on your dog's temperament and see which way it drives him. It is also very important to properly fit a prong collar (it should sit high up on the dogs neck and not drift down toward the bottom of his neck). I see people remove prong collars from their dog's neck by pulling it over their heads. There is no way a prong collar, properly fitted could pull over a dog's head. And lastly, the collar should be used on a loose leash, not a taut one. If the dog is pulling on the leash, train him not to pull on the leash (with or without the prong collar) and then use the prong collar for other corrections. I expect dogs to walk on a loose leash first and foremost.

If you're one of those people who falls for the gimmicks of head harnesses or body harnesses to teach their dogs how to walk properly, you might be reading the wrong blog. Teaching a dog a behavior is exactly that, Teaching. The gimmick will not teach him, it's only a cruel way to restrict the dog from doing what he wants to do. The key is to "teach" the dog that what we want is in his best interest so that he will follow that path irrelevant of the collar he wears.

Taking Treats too Rough

2010-11-13T12:21:00.000-08:00

For those of us who believe that using treats to establish a training relationship is important, we are often faced with dogs that have sloppy manners and take treats too roughly. I've seem many people dealing with these dogs in an incorrect manner, so I thought to address it here. It could be a possible article, but I can address it quickly in this blog.

Dogs that take treats too roughly are called "mouthy dogs." This does not lend itself to a dog that bites; simply one that is quite sloppy when taking treats, and they oftentimes will take the treat so roughly that the handler / trainer's hands bleed. The common mistake people make with these dogs is trying to pull away from the dog's mouth in order to teach them manners. As if to say, "No, you take the treat slowly or you don't get any." Unfortunately, this doesn't work and oftentimes makes the dog try harder to get the treats and therefor exacerbates the problem.

The best solution I've found is to watch the dogs behavior, and as he pushes his mouth into my hand to get the treat, I push my hand forward into his mouth with the same rate of speed. The thing that happens is the dog regresses (mainly as a startle response) and I immediately give him the treat.

Each time the dog comes to my hand to get the treat roughly, I push my hand firmly into the dog's mouth. Each time he will regress and I immediately mark that behavior and pay him (give him the treat).

This shouldn't take too long to teach, as most dogs will catch on quickly. It's also a good idea to see if the food reward might just be too high for the training. I see this a lot in dealing with shelter dogs. They are so food driven that they will just about take your fingers off to get the treat.

Also, when first training a new dog (new to you), be sure to lay a piece of food on your open hand and allow the dog to take it. This serves to establish the fact that the food is there for him to take. It sets the stage that he "will" get paid and that you are fair.

The biggest mistake in dealing with dogs that are mouthy is trying to pull away as the dog goes for the treat. This will only make him lunge more and work harder to get it out of your hand. Remember, it's not his job to get the food out of your hand, it's his job to complete the task we're asking and it's our job to give him the reward.

So, if you're dealing with a mouthy dog, be prepared to unload / reward faster and most importantly move forward to pay him. Bring the food to his mouth and he will be less likely to push, bite or mouth your hand.

Barrier Aggression is a common problem for shelter dogs...

2010-08-28T18:36:00.001-07:00

I can't tell you how often I'm called to deal with a dog at a shelter that exhibits what's called Barrier Aggression. This is a behavior when the dog is barking, growling or aggresses toward the front of the kennel when people are present. It is generally not that hard to fix, but it is a death sentence in many shelters.

The most common solutions are overlooked. Having trained several shelters in new methods of temperament testing and dog behavior, this article sheds new light on this behavior. Please share it with your rescue, shelter and humane societies.

http://blackbeltdogtraining.com/dog_training_articles.html

Best regards,

Robert

______________________________
Robert Cabral
BOUND ANGELS
"giving a voice to animals"
www.boundangels.org
www.BoundAngels.tv
www.youtube.com/boundangels
www.blackbeltdogtraining.com
join the revolution!

Puppy Jumping and Biting

2010-06-26T08:49:00.001-07:00

I just received a question on facebook and thought I'd post it here.

Q: Everytime I go outside, my 4 month old heeler pup bites my feet and ankles REALLY hard. She jumps up and tears my clothes. I've tried everything. She's fine when I hold her. Her Mom was a terror. Any suggestions? She jumps up and tears all my shirts! My legs and arms are all bitten up. Her teeth are like needles. She jumps like a kangaroo...

A: Puppies jump and bite. I have a young malinois and I can tell you that every pair of socks that I have has holes in it, uggh boots are totally out. This is part of their natural drive. There are a couple of suggestions:
1. don't yell at or hit the puppy, it will confuse him
2. don't pull back or away - this will incite his natural drive
3. whenever you approach the puppy, have treats or a toy with you. when he starts his behavior-STOP, stand motionless, he will only pull back against that which is pulling. Distract him with the treat or toy and reward him.
4. during training, which may take a few months, do not approach him unless you have a "tool" to help curb the behavior.
5. don't engage him in this behavior during play time, be consistent.

This is a natural behavior for dogs, and worse for some (like mine). It took me about 4 weeks to curb it, although its still there a little. The key is to remain motionless as much as possible. If she gets your hand, don't pull back, distract her immediately and give her something to chew one. Also, she should have plenty of things to chew on to satisfy the chewing urge / teething she will have:
1. frozen dish towels
2. ice in water
3. raw bones
4. puppy kongs stuffed with frozen cottage cheese
5. yak milk bones
*** keep it natural - and remember, it won't last forever, if you follow some simple steps, it will get better fast. Even though it doesn't seem like it now. I just went through it and it was HELL.

Just Kill the Dog- it's easier

2010-06-24T20:23:00.001-07:00

As ridiculous as this statement sounds, you've got to consider the approach most people take with their dogs. People who have dogs with issues, which many have, give it a half-assed try to fix it, and when that doesn't work, they either give up on the dog and let the trouble behavior continue, or they dump the dog at the shelter.

Dumping a dog at the shelter is about the most cowardly thing I can imagine and it only leads to a dogs issues getting worse progressively worse until the dog is killed and dumped in a barrel. Giving up on a creature that lives and breathes and depends on you 100% is BS. I get so upset at the people who say, "I've tried everything, and nothing seems to work." Well, instead of trying everything perhaps you should limit yourself to trying those things that will work. Tossing a hundred ideas around and seeing if one will work is a recipe for disaster. Its almost as bad as giving it a half-hearted approach and then giving up.

For dogs with strong behavioral issues, which are the ones that end up in the shelter, people will give training a "try." They will generally register at a local pet store or group class and follow the instructions for a week or so. If the dogs progress is not up to their expectations, they let it go. These are the same people who go to the gym for a couple of weeks and when they don't look like the magazine cover, they get angry at society for marketing beautiful people. Dog training is something you will start to do today and continue until your dog takes his last breath. Its part of dog custodianship and its fun and rewarding for both you and your dog.

Mediocrity is not acceptable when success is the goal.

There is one approach I take with dogs, and that is a fair one. I start all training and behavior issues with a treat and a toy. I look to what the dog responds to and how he responds. I want to see what drives him and how he relates. I do believe in a strong hand with dogs as they respect that. For the feather weight trainers who abhor any corrections, I welcome them to visit the city and county shelters that I work with and bring your treat pouch (and a band aid).

My reason for taking such a strong stand is simple; I do not believe in dominating or hitting dogs, lets be clear on that. However, a firm correction that moves a dog into obedience is fair. Remember, a correction is not abuse, it is merely a direction to move a dog from what he is doing wrong to what we expect of him. For example if we are teaching a dog to sit and he is "not getting it" by use of a treat over his head, we can push down on his backside and "correct" him into the sit. A dog that doesn't follow on a leash when we lure him with a treat can be "corrected" by using a leash pop when we give him the direction to "follow" or "heel."

Now if all things were as simple as getting a dog to sit or follow life would be ok. Most of the problem issues come into place when people accept bad behavior from their dogs and don't correct for it when the problem first appears, be it that they are ignorant to the potential or that they think its cute and it will "probably go away." This can be as simple as a dog jumping up on people or chewing your favorite shoes, all the way to dominant and aggressive posturing and actions toward people and other dogs.

If we can't redirect the dog with a treat or a toy is it worth it to give the dog a fair correction or should we just drop the dog at the shelter and give up on him? If that is the case, why not just take him to the vet and kill him ourselves?

Harsh words? Well the reality of it is simple: If you can't get "your" dog to listen to you or to obey you, or if "you" refuse to give your dog the direction he needs, what makes you think that someone else wants your problem? The dog that puts his head down every night and you are the last person he sees, the dog that wags his tail at your mere presence, the dog that would give his life for you is the one you are giving up on. Remember one thing, he is an animal with teeth and the ability to use them. If you don't realize this, maybe you should opt for a goldfish as a pet.

Training a dog may take some work. Much like having a child, children require work: we change diapers, stay up when they cry, teach them to walk, talk, etc. Dogs require a certain amount of work. If people could understand that dedication to training, socialization and structure early on could save them a lot of work in the end.

Your dog depends on you - YOU! He has nowhere else to go. If you give up on him, his world has forsaken him, he's just as well dead. If you can't take the responsibility of training him, understand that someone else probably won't either. There are thousands of great dogs in shelters across this country, the dog you messed up and gave up on is not on the top of the list for an adoption. Most rescue organizations won't take dogs with aggression issues because they don't have the time to "fix" them. They are over-flooded with the countless other dogs that they are rescuing every day.

If your dog is developing an "issue" research training methods and get to work. I can assure you that an attitude of indifference and strength will go a long way with your dog and will move you along in training and giving your dog a fair chance at a good life.

Robert Cabral
Bound Angels
Black Belt Dog Training

Common Questions on Dogs with Dominance / Aggression Issues

2010-05-26T21:27:00.000-07:00

I can't tell you how many times I've been asked these questions, so I want to publish them here for all to read:

A few short questions:

(1) How do you show a dog you don't need protecting, that you can protect yourself, and do it fairly if the dog has grown to believe his job is to protect you?

This is an interesting and complex question, yet the answer is quite simple. We can't show a dog that we "don't" need protecting, instead we show a dog that we "CAN" handle ourselves. The primary way we do that is to exhibit the characteristics of a "dog-leader:" we are FAIR, STRONG and INDIFFERENT. We're not afraid to deliver a correction if someone in our pack acts out of line, we don't get overly emotional whether its for praise or correction. We remain neutral. Most importantly, we don't allow our dog to fail. If your dog is acting nutty and you remove him from the situation that makes him act that way, you've not solved anything, in fact you've reinforced his behavior. If your dog is afraid of other dogs, for example, I would take him in the vicinity or neutral other dogs (never letting him get close enough to play, bite or get bit) and mark his positive behavior with treats or praise. Take it slow, this takes a long time. Also, I use a desensitization technique of moving a dog past the dog he sees and then bringing him back around. If your dog sees that he can walk by another dog without incident, he will become more trusting of the situation.

(2) How do you get into a dog's head in order to toggle some of the switches, so to speak?

This will also reflect back to question #1. I believe in a positive based training approach, so everything the dog does that is good gets a reward, when he acts like a goof, he gets a correction, and when he acquiesces to that correction, he once again receives a reward. It's generally pretty easy to see when a dogs triggers get thrown. Before he throws his switch you need to step on and redirect the dog to something positive. If he starts to stare at another dog, we get the dogs focus back on us... whatever it takes to do that. Once he is focused on us, we can "correct" the dog for looking away and not paying attention.

(3) Are you able to send a list of marker and/or basic training exercisers to accomplish what I've asked about above?

I think the single most important thing to do is marking your dogs connection with you. in other words, when he looks at you, he gets a reward, when he looks away - he doesn't. When he looks away and does something stupid, like lunging at a dog - he should be corrected. The correction should be strong enough to get him to understand that what he is doing is dangerous for him and you. When he complies, your praise must be strong enough and exuberant enough to overshadow the correction. Bottom line, the dog must understand that being around you and being good is the best thing in his life. You must remain more interesting than the thing that is distracting him. This comes from many hours of bonding and game playing. It does not come from yanking a dog around and expecting compliance.

Diet and Feeding

2010-04-03T18:26:00.001-07:00

Recently I posted an article on raw feeding your dog, but I thought to address it in the blog for a shorter version. Since the first day I had my dog I was concerned about the right things to feed him. Being a health conscious person myself, I though it of great importance to think about what I give my dog to eat.

So many people I know just plop a bowl down and scoop a couple of cups worth of dry kibble and never think about the crap they are feeding their best friend. After much research I've abandoned the idea of commercial dog food and opted for a natural, and mostly raw diet. There is much debate about this on the internet, but if you think about it logically, you'll draw your own conclusions. If you really care about your dog, you'll feed him like you yourself eat. To me this includes at least two feedings a day whenever possible.

I shop for my dog at the same store where I buy my food. Even though I am a vegetarian, I don't put that on my dog. He eats a diet that consisits of raw chicken, raw green tripe, sardines, oat flakes, cooked brown organic rice, yams / sweet potatoes, raw eggs, oaccasionally cottage cheese, raw bones and a host of other goodies. I also suplement him with apple cider vinegar, vitamin c, kelp, coconut oil and fish oil. All the info is available for you on the internet. I have an article I wrote on raw feeding, I hope you'll read it.

For the benefit of your dog, I hope you'll open your mind to the concept of natural feeding, of not raw, at least consider natural feeding. If you insist on feeding commercial dog food, do the research. There are some good commercial foods, but you'll spend as much as natural feeding.

The Myth of the Treat

2010-02-28T13:42:00.000-08:00

I recently published a new article on Black Belt Dog Training about the great misconception of using treats to train a dog.

Its an argument that I face constantly, and one I feel quite qualified to answer, because I believe in a very balanced approach to training dogs. I think that proper correction as necessary, and I believe that proper praise and the use of treats are crucial. Anyone who uses a one sided a approach is limited in their ability to train and understand a dog.

Please take the time to read this article, click here > and share it with your friends.

Good quality treats are hard to find, so I suggest you spend some time in finding something that your dog loves.

Reinforcing a Behavior

2010-02-20T20:07:00.001-08:00

Reinforcing negative behaviors is a topic for a book that I could write for all the time I've seen it done (and done wrong). People yell at dogs for doing the wrong thing, thinking it will fix the problem, when it only "reinforces" the wrong thing.

I stumbled across a super sweet Shepherd /Malinois mix at the shelter in West LA. One of the most beautiful dogs I've seen in a long time, just my kind of dog. If you walked by his kennel, he would launch at the door. Everyone was afraid of him, and because of that he got very little attention. I stayed at his kennel for some time and observed him. As long as he barked, I wasn't gonna leave. I put my hand to the door and he looked puzzled. This is not a suggestion to anyone else, but I could see what his behavior was like. After a few minutes I went into his kennel, put a rope around him and brought him out. He bolted, with me in tow, to the grass to relieve himself: this dog is obviously housebroken. We got into the yard and I watched his behavior and it was all good. I summoned some of the great volunteers at the shelter and gave them a quick lesson in how to deal with this guy.

Today I went back for the third time to see him. Out in the play yard he is a super happy guy. He gets along with other dogs; male and female. He knows several basic commands and will do them for a treat or praise. Someone did work with this dog before, but I feel in an incorrect way. He shows some signs of fear, but this can be so easily corrected with proper handling.

I've enrolled him in the k9 connection program that I work with: I handle screening all of the dogs that are used in the program. With some socialization and handling he will do great, but I have a feeling he will have a home before then. Everyone who saw me handling him in the shelters play-yard stopped and asked about him. Charla, the volunteer coordinator was so impressed by him that she said he won't last long, someone will snap him up.

The point for this post is that behaviors are often not what they seem on the outside. This guy was about to be given up on because every time he would bark, people moved away from the front of his cell. This made him learn that barking makes people leave, which in his mind creates an association that they must be there to hurt him. He barks, scares them, they leave. When I opened his door and stood there, he was perplexed. Now that others are doing the same, his behavior has totally changed. Today, when I arrived, I was floored to see him curled up at the front of his cell. This is the first time he's done this. I have to thank all the volunteers at the shelter for listening and learning this valuable lesson. If everyone would always go away, he would only have gotten worse. Eventually he would become so protective over the kennel, he may have bitten. But since he now has "relearned" that people actually are a good thing, he can be saved.

When a dog does something that we don't like, we should not "re-act." Often times, the best thing to do is to do nothing. If you walk away its something, if you re-act with dominance its something. The best thing is to wait for a behavior that you want and respond to that. This works perfect in a situation like this, it would not have worked if the dog was dominantly aggressive. How to tell the difference is the key, I've learned to do so by working with hundreds of dogs at the shelters. To me its second nature, I don't suggest guessing at it. However, if you know, then you can go with the solution, which is working with the dog to better his behavior. I have a lot of hours invested in this dog and can't wait to see the great people that adopt him, he will be a perfect pet and friend for a long time. I named him Lucas.

So, if you wonder what I do when I'm not training dogs or writing my blog, I'm at the shelter trying to give a chance to a beautiful dog like Lucas who had no hope!

Using Dominant Based Corrections on Fearful Dogs

2010-01-16T17:59:00.001-08:00

One of the most important subjects pressing people today is the use of dominant based corrections on dogs. I'll go on record here to say that most people using them, are using them incorrectly, unfairly and are doing more harm than good. These so called trainers are not aware how to analyze a dogs behavior, instead they apply a blanket strategy to any dog that is acting out. They call it "AGGRESSION."

I will post an article relating to Classifying Canine Behavior. However, I would like to address the single most important mistake that I see made. That is people who use dominant corrections on a fearful dog. There is so much wrong with this that I don't know where to begin. The biggest problem with this is that it does nothing to fix the problem, and more often than not, will increase the "aggression" in the dog and / or develop much larger and worry-some issues in the dog.

Dogs that are fearful should NOT be given dominant based corrections. The corrections include, remote collars, prong collars, alpha rolls, etc. Using a motivational based approach, including marker training will bring the dog along much better. Giving the dog structure and strengthening the core of the dog will eliminate the fear and solve the problem. Correcting the dog with the wrong technique will only increase the dogs fear and create a larger problem. If the original problem was based on fear, and we use a technique that further scares the dog or makes him more fearful, it would be obvious that the problem will continue and eventually get worse.

Many trainers or handlers are looking for a "quick fix" and feel that correcting the dog strongly will solve the issue. This is bad all the way around. I've rehabilitated many truly dominant and aggressive dogs, and it takes time. If the owners of the dog are not willing to do the work, they should get rid of the dog. If they try the quick fix method, chances are the dog will eventually go off and cause more damage. Fixing the dog is hard work, but well worth the effort.

Evaluating a dog for fear vs. dominant based aggression should be done by a professional. This is not an evaluation to be taken lightly. One thing for sure is that there are more dogs acting out of fear based aggression than dominant based aggression. The reason for this is simple, dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years. A seriously aggressive dog is rare, however dogs that act out of fear are quite common. This is primarily a result of improper socialization in the early phases of a dogs life. If improper training is used, the dog will eventually get to a place that can not be corrected.

Dog training must always be fair to the dog, even if it is not that easy on the person employing it. Evaluating a dog for a proper behavior is as crucial as a proper prescription for the right medicine. Just jumping in and correcting a dog that is fearful, will only serve the ego of the jerk that is training the dog. Our goal should be one of compassion.

Dominance in Corrections

2010-01-15T13:44:00.000-08:00

This seems to be a topic that is very misunderstood among dog handlers, trainers as well as the community at large. I recently read an article on line of the AVA's guidelines on corrections as they relate to dominance. The main topic seems to be the "alpha roll," which I will address in detail at another time. For right now I can tell you that it is wrong and dangerous. No matter what you see on TV, I don't advocate that you try it. Its not something your dog will understand, and more than likely he will rebel against it.

When addressing dominance, we first must be able to understand the difference between true dominance, aggression and a dog being a dog. If a dog is just being a dog and we correct him for that in a dominant way, we are being unfair to the dog and our training will go nowhere. Determining if a behavior is aggressive in nature should be determined by a professional. By a professional I mean a professional that is used to dealing with this type of situation. Its not your neighborhood dog trainer. Get referrals and research before you hire someone. A flashy business card or webpage is usually not the credentials you are looking for. See what kind of experience they've had in dealing with aggression, get referrals and call.

Most behaviors that people see as "dominant or aggressive" are not that at all. I deal with serious behavioral problem dogs through rescue and at the shelters that I work with. In private, I can tell you that more than 50% of the people that call me with so called aggressive dogs, have dogs that lack structure. Applying dominant level corrections would do little to fix the problem and more than likely would exacerbate the problem.

PLEASE, do your research. Your dog has no one to appeal to except for you. You should be fair to him and take his best interests to your heart. Breaking a dog of bad behavior involves lots of work and time, its worth it, believe me. Yanking a fearful dog around will not fix him. On the other hand, taking a truly aggressive dog and offering him a treat to not kill the cat, will not work either.

Unfortunately everyone thinks they are a dog trainer, and all dog trainers think they can handle aggression. This is false. Behavioral issues must be addressed by someone who is skilled in evaluating the dog fairly and someone who has a competent approach to fixing it.

Dog Training Just Like a Diet

2009-11-25T20:07:00.000-08:00

I am often perplexed by people who take their dog training as serious as the New Years Diet. That is, they do it for a while and then let it go. In this situation everyone suffers: the people, the dog, the people who come into contact with the dog, the dogs that come into contact with the dog and eventually the system when the dog is dumped into a shelter.

To start out with I will say, "If you don't have the time, patience or persistence for a dog, get a stuffed pet." Dogs evolve and need continuous attention. Whether you hired a professional trainer or not - you will need to continue to work with your dog for the rest of his life. That is not to say you must engage in regimented training every day for the dogs life, but some degree of training should continue to keep your dog sharp. Positive re enforcement, basic obedience, play sessions, etc. must continue as your relationship evolves and as your dog matures. Dogs may not forget what they've learned, but dogs love to continue to be challenged.

When people spend 8-12 weeks training their dogs and then move on to the next fad, they get just what they invested.... very little. Once the dog is grounded in some basic training, it opens the door for a solid relationship. The relationship grows as the dog now knows how to relate to you.

What a dog learns in basic training is how to listen and how to learn. What the human should learn is how to relate to the dog in a manner that is fair. Once we've crossed this bridge, its a shame to throw it all away and just let it be. If you've taken the time to work with a trainer, book a session once every 6 months or so and touch up your training. There will be many fine tuning points that can keep training interesting for a long time. If your trainer is not available for a quick touch up session, find one that is. Reputable trainers will be more than happy to fine tune techniques, commands and training at any phase.

Don't let the relationship with your dog whither. Working a dog is the single strongest bond you will form with him.

Quitting dog training once you've achieved your basic goals is like celebrating your weight loss with a chocolate cake.

Behaviors Don't Fix Themselves

2009-11-02T20:45:00.000-08:00

Dogs are creatures of survival. They find what works and keep doing it. Their behaviors don't change, they simply adapt. If they are heading in a direction of aggression, they will continue in that direction until it stops working. Dogs are masters of opportunity and will use this skill to push any behaviors that are not put into check.

That being said, I'd like to focus on this issue for this post. If a dog attacks another dog, and then does it again, it is NO LONGER and ISOLATED incident. If a dog attacks, bites or shows aggression on more than one occasion, its an issue. I can't tell you how many calls I get and how many clients that hire me after their dog has gone nearly off the deep end. People always think it was just an "incident." Often times these incidents stem from improper integration into a home, an owner who does not show the dog the structure it needs, or improper socialization on a leash. Whatever the reason is not important here, what I'd like to stress is that the behavior will not right itself on its own.

If a dog shows even the slightest signs of aggression, and please understand that there is a difference between dominance and aggression, it is something that should be addressed. A dog should understand that his decisions are based on choices that you allow him to make. Its not up to my dog if he can or can not meet a dog, that choice is up to me. Depending how he acts, he may or may not meet another dog. My dog follows my lead and because of that he enjoys great amounts of freedom. He understands by following my rules and good behavior he gets to do lots of fun things: he meets lots of friends, gets to run around on the beach, doesn't have to live in a crate in the house, and much much more.

Before a dog has the opportunity to make a mistake, it is important that the human has put some basic structure down. If the dog doesn't listen, he doesn't get freedom. When the dog listens to basic commands, he can meet people. Once my dog understands what NO means, he can start to see the world through a wider scope. I don't want a dog that will jump up on people and I say "NO," and he doesn't understand what that means. I don't introduce a dog to another dog, let alone a pack until I know he is balanced and will fit into the pack - and also to be certain that it is a balanced pack that I am introducing my dog into. Any dog I introduce my dog to is one I feel somewhat safe about. Throwing your dog out there to meet another random dog is stupid and dangerous to your best friend.

All of these things take time, but they are worth the effort. Once the initial work is done, you must continue to do your homework, because as I stated at the start of this post, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will look for an opening or a weakness to exploit. That is the key to their survival in the wild. However, when they live under our roofs we can take that survival drive out of them and allow them to function as calm - cool members of society.

If your dog acts out once or twice it is important to address the situation. I can promise you from experience that their wrongs will not right themselves. Their aggression will not go away.

It Starts With Your Relationship

2009-10-29T19:47:00.000-07:00

I encounter many clients who have dogs that are trained, yet the people can not get the dog to do that which the dog has been trained to do.

There are several reasons for this. Among the biggest hurdles that people face is that if they didn't train the dog themselves they will have a harder time with the dog. Most qualified trainers will tell you that YOU need to train your dog. Training starts with your relationship with your dog. There's an article on the site that I suggest everyone to read "Building a Relationship Before Training."

If you think you are going to tell your dog to sit and expect him to sit, and then get upset that your dog doesn't sit.... you have a big obstacle in front of you. Before you ever give a dog a command, make sure you have a solid relationship with the dog, connect with the dog - then start shaping and marking the behaviors you want.

Among the most common calls I get is people saying that their dog doesn't come when called. I'll ask what the people are doing to teach the dog to come, and the only answer people can give is I yell COME HERE. This is one of the most ridiculous things that I can imagine, but I guess I might be in left field here. People truly expect their dog to come when they call. Have they spent any time teaching the dog what COME means? Have they build a relationship with the dog that makes the dog prefer to be with them rather than away from them? I would say no. If they did, the dog would prefer to be next to them and the issue would not be "how do I get the dog to come to me?" In many sport dog training events we need to teach the dog to run away from us for a certain distance. This is one of the hardest things to teach the dog, since we've built a strong relationship with the dog and he prefers to be with us.

When you are ready to start with training, take a step back. Have you formed a solid relationship with your dog? Does your dog prefer to be with you? What is your dogs attitude when he is with you? The dog needs to be happy and into you and the training before you begin. Forcing a dog to do this will never work. If you want to use methods of yanking the dog around to get him to do what you want, that is another story. It may or may not work, however I've found that most dogs respond better to positive - motivational based training. That is not to say that I do not believe in corrections, I do. The point is that there is a place for both in good training, starting with corrections only sets the plate for a relationship in which your dog fears you and doesn't respect you. Respect is what we focus on primarily in training.... Being a wimp in training will not help you either. Proper technique will require a balance between firm, fair and fun. This is what dogs look for in a training session. Can you deliver that?

When Training Doesn't Work

2009-09-29T21:28:00.000-07:00

Its been quite some time since I've updated the blog here on Black Belt Dog Training... The main reason for this is that I've been quite busy with some of the new articles that I've posted as well as training and working with many dogs, including those at the shelter through Bound Angels.

One thing that always seems to come to the forefront as a trainer / behaviorist is when the training does absolutely no good. It doesn't matter much if its my training or that of someone else (qualified that is), but the problem lies in the complacency of the people. I can pretty much tell if I'm spinning my wheels when I talk to a new client on the phone. Which is also why I am slow to take on new clients. If its just someone who wants to hear what they want to hear, or hire the guy with the reputation, I say "No Thanks." If you're not gonna do the work, you probably will never solve your problem. When you hire a professional, follow their advice. If you've hired them, your system probably has not been working. Your dog deserves a fair shot.

More often than not, I get the calls from people who's dogs are on their last hope. If my technique doesn't work, the next call is more than likely the vet to put the dog down or a short drive to the shelter. Nothing upsets me more than meeting this dog, seeing that the problem is totally solvable, and then seeing the people not do the homework it takes to change the dog. So often its a dog that bites or has aggressive tendencies. If this is directed at another dog, the answer is simple, keep the dog away from other dogs... Doesn't that make sense? Also, its important to realize that if a dog has aggressive tendencies, its probably brought on by the way you've raised him. In very rare cases it is a case of medical issues - but VERY rarely.

Most often than not, if a dog is dog-aggressive, they are not people aggressive. This is not a 100% rule, but its a high probability. Dog aggression is based on experiences or protectiveness. Its most often brought on by human behavior or a bad experience in the past. It is also not that hard to deal with, especially if its not directed at any dogs in your household, or re-directed towards humans.

I received a call recently from someone who's dog has just recently, mysteriously become dog aggressive. He asked my advice and I spoke to him at length on how to solve the problem. However, my answer was not what he wanted to hear. It seems that even if we fixed the aggression issue, the main problem remains that the dog "gets out of the house" and THEN attacks other dogs. I won't go into how stupid I find this, as it will do no good. This is one of those scenarios where certain people should not have dogs... and probably not children either. If you can't keep your dog contained, you've missed rule number one of responsible pet ownership. In a case like this, all the training in the world doesn't help. It doesn't help because the humans are incapable of the follow through.

The answer does not lie in sending your dog away so he won't be aggressive, as he won't be aggressive once he's trained. However, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will seek out the opportunity to get their way, and they will. Dogs require structure, its what keeps them safe... If you can't give them what they need, consider a pet ferret.

Balancing the Scales: Thoughts on training with rewards

2009-08-07T16:23:00.000-07:00

There seems to be such a strong division among people about the right approach to training their dogs. The basis stems down to the questions of using treats or corrections. Truth be told, the most important thing to do is to first understand your dog, build a relationship with him and see what he responds to. Is it a treat, a toy, praise... whatever it is, it needs to be valuable for your dog. Using treats to train a dog is never a bad idea, as long as you mold the behavior. That is to say the dog must understand that whatever the reward is, that it is linked to you and his behavior. If this connection is made with your dog, then he will be well balanced. That being said, there are times when a correction may be necessary. Unfortunately most people do not understand the difference, or choose not to spend the effort to try and figure it out. Other than aggression, a dog should not be corrected (physically) for something that he has not been taught.

Correcting a dog takes on many interpretations. A correction can be forcing the dog into what we are trying to get him to do: i.e. pushing down on his behind to get him to sit, popping up on the leash, or withholding a food reward until he sits. The difference in the approach is big in the dogs mind. If you force him into the sit physically, he will learn to sit to avoid being popped on the leash or having his butt pushed down. Withholding something he wants will make the dog think, "what do I need to do in order to get what I want?" For the most part this makes the most sense in training. Its also important to note that pushing down on a dogs back to force the sit, builds resistance. The harder you push down, the more the dog resists, the sloppier the sit becomes. We want a dog that pop into position, not one that is forced.

My biggest concern in training is that the training must always be fair for the dog. It starts with this concept, and ends with this concept. Being a jerk to a dog creates a dog that has very little connection / bond with its owner.

The key thing to remember is that training must show structure and the trainer must maintain his position as the dogs leader / teacher. The key thing I've seen people err on the side of is the extremes. Most correction based trainers lack the compassion to "teach" the dog, and many reward based trainers lack the strength to give the dog structure and guidance. The well balanced trainer will give the dog both.... and all the while remaining neutral and focussing on the most important aspect of dog training: Never letting your dog fail.

Training should be the most fun activity for your dog. I never end a training session on a negative note, and if I am not in the right mental place to train a dog, I don't. Starting out with a bad attitude is going to make for a session that goes nowhere. If I introduce something new to the dog during a particular session, or if the dog is having an issue with a particular task, I will always end the session on a high note. That is either I will stop when he gets the new task, or I will stop the session by having him do something that he already does well. The end of a training session is a celebration where the dog is made to feel very special and ends with a special treat that the dog loves: treats, toys, affection, playtime, etc.

Dog Corrections

2009-07-26T18:27:00.000-07:00

I think one of the biggest mistakes dog owners make with their dogs is the way they correct them. Before a human should ever correct a dog there are two important factors that must be met:

1. they must have established a relationship with the dog

2. the must understand how to deliver a proper and fair correction.

Because I find this such an important problem, I've written an article on Correction on the Black Belt Dog Training website. Click here to go to the training articles page.

The concept of correcting a dog is quite foreign to most owners. People see correcting their dogs as mean or unfair. Nothing can be further from the truth. People who understand the right way to correct a dog will create a strong bond with their dog. Those that do not will create a nightmare for both themselves and their dogs.

Enjoy the new article.

Best regards,

Robert Cabral

www.blackbeltdogtraining.com

Choosing a Dog Collar for Your Dog

2009-07-06T15:57:00.000-07:00

One of the most common things that I am asked about is what is the best collar to use for your dog. There are so many choices that it can be a daunting task for anyone. I've written and article to shed some light on my opinions. You can read all the articles I've posted at:

http://www.blackbeltdogtraining.com/dogtrainingarticles.html

I address everything from the haltis to harnesses, to choke collars, prongs and remote collars. One of the most important choices that you will make with your dog will be the collar he wears. An important thing to remember is that a collar is a second skin to your dog. I do not recommend using a collar to train the dog and then immediately removing the collar when training is over. Your dog should see you as the correction, not the collar. Collars should be work regularly by the dog before correction are given and should stay on the dog after the training is over.

This article is only scratching the surface on collar choices and theory, but its a good read to get your feet wet. I hope you'll enjoy it.

Best regards,

Robert

Dealing with the 4th of July for the sake of your dog

2009-07-01T16:48:00.001-07:00

Dealing with the 4th of July for the sake of your dog.

This is one holiday that is frightening for dogs, and also a holiday that leads to much stress and runaway dogs. Loud sounds are a trigger for dogs to run or panic. Fireworks, screeching, bangs, and other loud noises that are foreign to the dogs understanding elevate your dogs drive and can cause them to panic, run, become highly distressed, wet the floor, tear up things, pant out of control hide as well as other behaviors. Since it is such a sporadic thing there is very little we can do to prepare our dogs for the event but deal with it. Dogs can be trained to deal with it i.e. in police dog training or in training dogs to deal with high stress situations… However, our companion pets will need to deal with it, which means we should be equipped to deal with it for them.

Some things to bear in mind are:

1. If at all possible, do not leave your dog alone, especially outside during these events. If you must leave them alone, leave them inside with a TV or radio playing.
2. If you stay with your dog, don’t coddle them when they are scared. Be strong, talk with a normal voice and be indifferent to the sounds.
3. Have a TV or radio on to buffer the noise.
4. Keep the windows closed to keep the noise down.
5. Don’t take your dog for a walk during the fireworks.
6. Feed your dog long before the events start.
7. Give your dog a toy to play with, a bone or something to keep their mind off of what’s going on outside.
8. If your dog runs to you every time he hears a noise, don’t re-assure him with a soft – sweet voice. Use your normal voice and show him strength. Laugh and be playful. Be indifferent to what’s going on.
9. If you can keep the noise level in the house above the noise level outside, you dog may still hear things, but it will be muted and he may deal with it better.
10. Keep doors closed. This is one of the busiest times at shelters for runaways. Even if your dog has never shown a proclivity to run, this may be the time. Be Aware!
11. Some people like using a holistic nerve drop like Rescue Remedy. If you decide to give this, do so in small amounts and do it at least an hour before any events start.

The key thing to remember is that your dog sees things differently from you. If a dog has fear issues toward something you think is stupid, it’s you who is at fault not your dog. You cannot expect your dog to understand something he has no clue of, it’s not in his mental capacity. Pets are our responsibility. If you can’t step up to take the responsibility, consider a stuffed animal.

Dogs Peeing in the House

2009-05-25T20:45:00.000-07:00

There are only 3 reasons why a dog would pee in the house:
1. They are very sick
2. They have not been taught / trained properly by the human
3. They are acting out of dominance, this is marking

Dogs are very clean animals and will very seldom soil in their homes. This is not a post on potty training your dog, since this is something so simple to do that you should be able to research that anywhere. I may in the future write an article on it, however, I'm really trying to focus my blogs and articles on serious issues. I'd like to stress that once a dog marks in the home, he is likely to continue to mark that area until the scent is gone and / or until he is retrained.

I'll focus my attention here on #3 from the list of reasons above. Its quite common that a dog will mark a carpet, chair or something else, sometimes right in front of you. Often times this will happen when we start retraining a dog for dominance. If he's "testing" you, he may look right at you and pee on something. This requires immediate correction and serious consideration.

Remember, establishing yourself as your dogs leader does not imply being a bully. If you would like to learn how to be a good alpha role model for your dog, just peruse my other posts and articles, as they are full of this information. Leaders in the dog kingdom, don't yell or get upset. They handle the situation in a quick, strong and fair manner. If your dog is questioning your leadership by marking, etc. it simply means you have NOT clearly established yourself as his leader.

If during dominance struggle / retraining your dog starts marking in the house, I would suggest confining him either by the use of a tether or a crate. If the dog is tethered and you see him begin to mark, you can use a sharp correction on the collar and bring him outside. The correction should be strong and sharp: no yelling, no hitting. Hitting is not part of dog training. If you are using a crate, then the dog stays in the crate until he learns that marking in the house is totally unacceptable. He will learn this through understanding that you control his freedom and his life. If a dog marks in the house, he should not be left out of the crate in the home until this problem is solved. If you make this mistake, your dog will find areas to mark that you will never find until they start to smell so bad that you can't get the smell out.

In order to remove the smell from an area that a dog has marked, use copious amounts of an enzyme based odor eliminator such as Natures Miracle. You will not use too much. The area needs to be soaked and the liquid needs to be absorbed into the fabric and or flooring. Do not try to spot clean urine markings. Your dog will find that spot from down the street.

Another important note to mention here is that if you come home and your dog marked the house, only a moron would tell you to rub the dogs nose in it. It would do you better to rub your own nose in it than your dogs. If he marked in the house, its too late, and its your fault for not properly training your dog. Dogs should not be left unsupervised until they are properly trained. Confining a dog in a crate for a few hours when you are out is not the worst thing to do to them. Spend the time to properly train your dog and it will pay off in spades. Do it halfheartedly and you will spend the dogs entire life trying to fix it.

Pack structure and obedience training is something that you establish once and continue to develop over the lifetime of your relationship with your dog. Its a relationship based on love and fairness.

Dog Parks - The Bad and The Very Bad

2009-05-25T20:37:00.000-07:00

I've just written an article about my opinion on dog parks, and its not cheery. To put it in a nutshell, there is no upside to dog parks. They're a breeding ground for disease and an accident waiting to happen. Not too long ago I received an email from a girl who took her shepherd to a local dog park and when she recovered her dog, he was missing both of his ears. One never to be found again, the other costing thousands of dollars to repair. The financial implications of this is nothing compared to the emotional impact this incident will have on her dog.

If you're even thinking about taking your dog to a dog park, I'd ask you to stop, read my article and then if you need more convincing, research them a bit more on the internet. If you think dog parks are a good idea, you haven't seen or heard what I have.

Dog parks are not a way to "socialize" you dog, or get them exercise. Dogs fight for structure at dog parks, there are rank struggles and dogs become dominant toward other dogs at dog parks. If you love your dog, do the research. It only takes one dog to set off a pack fight, and once initiated, you will not be able to break it up, I promise you. Please visit my site www.blackbeltdogtraining.com and click on the articles button. Read my article on dog parks and reconsider.

Desesitizing Your Dog to the Car

2009-02-03T20:54:00.000-08:00

I received the following question:

I told you I would email you about my dog, Rufus (Ru), and my issues with him. Pit bull mix about 2 years old. Rescue, of course. I’m having two issues. One, he gets overly excited prior to getting in the car and while in the car. Pulls and pulls on the leash (even with a gentle leader on). And I cannot calm him down once we are in the car. Whining, pulling on the seat restraint, almost hurting himself. I have tried treats, positive reinforcement, a squirt bottle (ha ha), being really calm and assertive, walking him beforehand, etc. I’m at my wits end…it makes it very difficult to want to take him anywhere.

________________

Truth be told, this is not an uncommon problem. Dogs are like children, as they see the car as a way to get somewhere, and not an experience in an of itself. I have seen this problem over and over again, some people make it so exciting for the dog to get into the car that the dog almost looses his mind once in the car. I approach putting a dog into the car with no emotion. I've transported countless dogs from shelters (dogs I've never handled), taught my personal dogs about car manners, and taught clients these techniques.

1. When approaching the car, do not make a big deal. Walk up to the car and make the dog sit. Open the door and do not allow the dog to enter. Walk away from the car and go somewhere else. Just because the car is there doesn't mean we're gonna use it.

2. Have the dog jump up in the car on your command, NOT before. If he goes to jump before you tell him, hold the leash back and don't allow him to enter. The dog does not enter the car until you instruct him. Once in the car, praise the dog and then ask him to come back out. Walk away and do something else.

*** What we are doing is desensitizing the dog to the car here.. follow along***

3. Once in the car, close the door, don't restrain the dog, and get into the drivers seat. Don't speak to the dog or acknowledge him. Let him sit in the back seat. If he tries to come up front between the seats, use your elbow to keep him back. Do NOT yell at the dog or become emotional. You're up front and the dog stays in the back.

4. I personally do not use a crate in the car, but it can be a good idea for people who are not strong enough in size and leadership to convince the dog of their position.

The key thing in any dog behavior is to go slow. Don't throw your dog into your car and take a 3 hour drive. I've driven with my dog across the US 6 times. He was perfect and laid in the backseat the whole time. I've trained him to be a perfect car rider through slow and steady focus. When I first got him, he was a handful in the car. His previous owner allowed him to "ride" on the center console because it was cute. That didn't last even 5 minutes with me. He received an occasional praise for being in the back. I've followed this technique with every dog I've owned and trained. The front of the car belongs to me, as does the whole car, I share the back with him. Remaining aloof to the dog shows him his place.

I also use a blanket or seat cover on the back seats so my dog does not skid all over the back seat, which keeps him calmer and it saves the fabric on my seats.

Dogs that are sensitive to the car need to be de-sensitized to it slowly. Getting frustrated with your dog makes any situation worst. Dogs sense your energy and it will either escalate his drive or calm him down.

A Dog Pays the Price for a Human Stupidity

2009-01-14T16:51:00.000-08:00

This is a post to set some issues straight on proper dog handling, introduction to other dogs and training.

As many of you know, I run a rescue organization called Bound Angels, I adopted a dog out to someone who killed the dog, because of two reasons:
1. the dog killed her cat
2. she did not want to "put the dog through electrical shock training."

I advised this person on the proper way to introduce a dog to a cat, through use of a crate, and she did not listen. I advised her on how to properly handle his aggression through proven techniques, she did not listen. I was there for her, if ever she needed advice. I got an email after the dog had been killed.

It seems people always want to do things their way. People find correction based training Mean or Cruel. I find it necessary when it comes to aggression. I am a big fan of positive, motivational based training in most all situations. However, dominance and aggression can NOT be handled like this. I have trained enough dominant and aggressive dogs to be quite clear on this. There are few trainers who would differ if they have any experience with the dogs I've worked with. However, most trainers would just give up rather than give the dog the correction it needs. Giving a dog a correction, be it with a pinch collar, a remote collar or a dominant dog collar is NOT cruel, it is fair. These corrections, properly executed and properly timed, give the dog the redirection and correction it needs to understand its place in the pack. Dogs communicate in very different ways than humans. We, as humans, over complicate dog behavior and make it into a psycho-babble system that doesn't work. If your dog wants to kill a cat or another dog, or bite someone, offering him a treat, will NOT make him change his mind.

Dogs should not be introduced to objects of prey until the dog has formed a solid relationship with you. If you do, and you expect the dog to listen, you are DEAD WRONG. The introduction of an object of prey is a distraction to proof the training the dog has undergone. This is clearly shown in Schutzhund training, however in this case it is often a best practice to work on the dogs bite before obedience and corrections. However, it is imperitive that the dog understands who is in charge. Once properly trained, a good Schutzhund dog will NOT touch a cat, bird, squirrel or anything unless it is told to do so.

The reason I am upset about this is because this act of stupidity cost 3 lives. The first cat the dog went after should have set a strong precident that the dog has a high prey drive. Instead, the dog killed the first cat, as well as the second cat and then the dog was murdered for being a dog.

I own a bird and have proven that my technique works with my current dog. He did have a drive toward the bird. My dog quickly learned that the bird belongs to me, and he is NOT allowed near the bird. In fact, he is so clear on this that the bird can walk over and sit on the dogs bed and the dog will leave the area. I highly doubt that most people will be able to train a dog to this level, however clearly establishing your role as your dogs leader is imperitive in training.

If you have a cat and want to introduce it to a new dog, hire someone to help you. Make sure they are qualified. And most importantly, make sure to do the introduction in sterile conditions. The animals need to be protected. If you can not give a dog a solid, fair correction, do not get a dog that has any drive, consider a cat.

On a closing note I would like to stress that I think that using a motivational based system to introduce a dog to a distraction is fine, it is in fact how I start out. Corrections should only be used as a very last resort. Trainers who start out with corrections as unskilled at basic canine behavior. To be fair to the dog and bond your relationship, the situation must be fair to the dog. If a dog can be introduced to a cat, bird or other dog using motivational based techniques, this is the best situation. When I talk about corrections as above, please bear in mind that the dogs I am talking about are the most severe of cases. They are not your average family dogs. I have retrained many dogs using motivational based training, however before killing a dog and giving up on them, I will always opt for a correction based method if all else fails.

Dangerous Dog Toy Alert

2009-01-02T12:35:00.001-08:00

Dangerous Dog Toy from Four Paws
beware there are other companies that make a very similar toy.. read below

This email has been going around for a while and I think its important for people to know a bit about the toys that they offer their dogs. This toy in particular is very dangerous, because of a simple design flaw. There is a hole on one side and either no hole on the other side, or a hole on the other side that is obstructed by a barrier in the middle of the ball. A simple test you can do is, blow into the hole on one side, if no air comes out the other side, ITS BAD. The reason it is so bad is because it creates a vacuum. The dog licks and sucks on the hole, eventually their tongue goes into the hole and the more they sucks, the stronger the suction becomes in this hole. The vacuum causes the tongue to swell and thereby the tongue gets stuck. This dog was saved, but had to have his tongue amputated. It is a very sad story and one others should learn from.

Please, test your dogs toys before you throw them down. Dogs are placed in constant danger with toys that they swallow, choke on, get poisoned by and more. There are simple tests you can do. The test I suggest above is a good one. Here are some others.
If the toy has a hole in it, be sure that the hole goes to both sides, in other words, that it is open on both sides.
If the toy contains a small bell, remove the bell.
If the toy is chewable and comes apart easy, do not let your dog play with it, as pieces of plastic can cause blockage in dogs.
Avoid small toys, as dogs will swallow them.
Avoid tennis balls, as the glue that holds the felt on can dissolve the enamel on your dogs teeth. If you're at the lake or beach where the ball is constantly in the water, it is OK... But I do not let my dog play with tennis balls any more.
Avoid cooked bones, they splinter and can be fatal to your dog, I feed my dog raw marrow bones.
ALWAYS supervise your dog with toys, especially new ones. If your dog is an intense chewer, I suggest strong durable toys or toys that may have treats inside, such as frozen meat to occupy his time.

The best thing of all is to teach your dog that toys are a privileged and belong to you. You can leave your dogs some specific toys with treats inside when you are out, but leaving a basket of toys around is a recipe for disaster.

The Pet Checkup - my favorite new product

2008-12-27T19:54:00.000-08:00

I'm not one to post products here, however I'd like to showcase some great products from time to time. Recently I was asked to review and test a product, I agreed. This product is The Pet Checkup.

Being involved in rescue as well as training, I am very aware of the slightest things that can go wrong with a pets health and the importance of early detection. The Pet Checkup screens for a multitude of thins and its as easy to use as 1 2 3. You need a small urine sample from your pet and you're set to go. It takes about 5 minutes to do the test and the results are clear, easy to understand and very helpful. Its something I would suggest meeting with your vet on to discuss so that you have a better understanding of what might concern you. But you can do the test at home once a month and monitor your pets health easily and in-expensively.

I used a small Dixie Cup when my dog lifted his leg, walked back upstairs with the cup and did the test. You may get a little on your hand, but I promise it won't kill you. You need to make sure you get it into the cup and not use any that has hit the ground, but that should be obvious. The instructions in the kit are very clear. Also, you get enough strips to test several times and you can always reorder.

There are few products I would give this high of a rating for, but The Pet Checkup is my #1 product that I think every pet owner should have. I will not be without it.

Please check out there site for more info: http://www.thepetcheckup.com

Dogs in Pickup Trucks - Dogs in Cars

2008-12-27T19:35:00.001-08:00

Take a look at the picture of the dog on the left. Her name is Prada, and the good news is she lived. The owner, obviously not a very intelligent person, put the dog in the back of her pick up truck and was transporting her to the animals shelter to be killed. Lets get the reason the owner wanted to dog killed out of the way first: its because the dog had a skin condition. This skin condition, commonly called mange, is very curable. Of course it would be easier just to kill the dog because that is cheaper. SEAACA in Downey CA was the shelter where Prada would have met the needle, but in fact she is being treated, and I assume will find a great home because of the publicity this case has caused. However, I'd like to address some safety issues here. Having spent some time living in the south, its a common site to see a dog in the back of a pickup truck. I see it commonly here in LA as well, and there are few things that get under my skin as much as this, so I thought this would be a great opportunity to write about it.

DOGS DO NOT BELONG IN THE BACK OF A PICKUP TRUCK. If you live on a farm and run your truck from one end of your property to another its one thing and I can understand it, but not if you're driving on the freeway. Tying the dog up back there will result in the picture you see above, not tethering the dog will allow them to sail out and get run over by all the cars behind you.

If you want to take your dog with you, here are a couple of tips:
1. do not put your dog in the back of the pickup truck (tethered or untethered - that means tied up or not tied up).
2. do not let your dog sit on your lap while you are driving. It will be crushed by the steering wheel or air bag in the event of an accident.
3. do not let your dog hand its head out of the window, it can be decapitated in an accident.
4. a dog that leans out of the window, will fall out or jump out if it sees something outside it wants to get to.
5. do not let your dog sit on the center console when you are driving. The dog will become a projectile in the event of an accident.

The best and safest way to transport a dog is in a crate. If this is not an option, then the dog should be in the back seat, laying down. Some people suggest a harness and seat belting the harness to the cars seat belts. I would urge you to consider carefully transporting your dog. Its like a 2 year old loose in the back of your car. The best solution is to constrain them, its safe and its smart.

Ironically enough the woman who almost murdered Prada was totally un-aware of the agonizing hell that the dog was enduring on her leisurely drive to the shelter... maybe she was on her cell phone, texting or something. In CA it is against the law to transport an animal in open truck beds. I assume it is also the law in several other states. I don't see this law being vigilantly enforced, so I urge you to enforce it yourself. Be smart and be kind to your animals. They do not have the capacity to fend for themselves.

Feeding your dog

2008-10-26T18:41:00.001-07:00

Although this may seem like a no brainer, I find that most people make great mistakes on this topic. Let me address some points of proper feeding here.

** first off I will stress that any idiot who feeds a dog and then sticks his hand into the food bowl to test for dog aggression, deserves to be bit. When the food goes down, leave it down and don't bother your dog.

One of the strongest drives for a dog is his food drive. In nature it is the quintessential drive that keeps him alive. Dogs eat in pack order, that means the alpha / leader eats first and when he is finished the rest of the pack eats. To properly mimic this I often teach people to eat before feeding their dogs. This will also help in begging at the table. If you never feed your dog from the table and feed him when you finish, he will, more than likely understand that his reward will be his food. Also, you may ask your dog to sit and wait while you put the bowl down and then give him an ok command to eat. Dogs are not permitted to jump up to the food bowl as it is put down. I'll stress again here, do NOT put the bowl down and then pick it back up. You are doing something that is out of the nature of the dog and is very unfair to the dog.

Food stays down for 15 minutes whether or not the dog has eaten or finished the food. If he has not touched it, pick it up and put it back down at the next feeding. Once the dog walks away from the food, you may assume he is done.

I recommend feeding your dog 2-3 times a day. Feeding once a day is generally not a good habit and may lead to weight problems. Morning and evenings are best, morning, afternoons and evenings are best. Dogs do not eat before or during human meal times, dogs eat after human are done eating. Also, I do not allow dogs to beg at the table. If your dog begs at the table he has either not been trained or has been poorly trained. If a dog begs at the table he is ignored. If you start giving in you will forever have a poorly trained dog. Eat, then feed your dog. IF.... and this is a big if, your dog is perfectly trained, the dogs food may be put down once you start to eat. However, I would stress for the most part to avoid this unless you know 100% that your dog understands good behavior. Your dog will NOT see you as being mean or unfair if you eat in front of him and he has to wait. This is a human emotion and goes against every instinct in your dogs body. If you eat and your dog waits, he will be absolutely fine with it.

For feeding I recommend you research carefully what you will be feeding him. I don't make any recommendations, but will tell you not to listen to the guy who works at the local pet store or the vet. Most of these people are getting bonuses or commissions on the foods they sell. Research and do your homework. I feed my dog raw food and "regular human food." That is food I buy at the grocery store when I buy my food. There are some pet food companies taht make a decent kibble or RAW food, but nothing is as good as the food we buy for ourselves. Please read my article on RAW feeding. I also feed my dog natural raw marrow bones. I do NOT cook them, as when you cook them you change the structure and the bone can splinter and kill / choke your dog. Dogs in the wild do NOT cook their food and rarely die of a bone splinter.

If you give your dog treats, I recommend that you carefully research what it is you are feeding him. If it comes from someplace you don't know, or includes ingredients that you don't know, I would not feed it to my dog. You are your dogs only link to proper nutrition, take this responsibility seriously. Proper nutrition will be the best way to ensure your dogs health and longevity.

Leash Aggression - Leash Fear

2008-10-22T21:23:00.001-07:00

This last weekend I was asked to work with two dogs with quite opposite problems. The first one was leash aggressive, the other was leash fearful. The owners were puzzled as they loved both dogs, both were rescues and both had a wonderful life. The owners a middle aged couple were very confused, they knew for certain that the one dog was fearful on the leash because she had gotten away and was attacked by coyotes.

After a short time evaluating the dogs the problem had little if anything to do with what other trainers or the owners thought. First off, since the dog that was fearful on the leash was not on a leash when it was attacked, I disregarded that and started at the basics. I put the dogs on a leash, one by one, and took them outside to two waiting dogs, both chows ( I would not recommend using chow chows to get a small dog over leash issue). The first dog I took was the one with leash aggression. The most important thing for a walk is how the walk starts. I put the leash on the dog, waited for the dog to calm down and then took the dog for a walk. Please read that part again, "I took the dog for a walk." Most people let the dog take them for a walk. The dog exhibited some issues, but obviously much less than previously. I worked with the dog for about 5-10 minutes and the dog was able to meet and sniff the chow chow.

The key thing to overcoming leash issues with a dog is to make the dog understand that the person at the other end of the leash is in control and will protect him. The dog may combat this at first, but once the situation is established and you are the leader, the dog will have much less aggression or fear on a leash. Leash aggression generally is attributed to a few things:
1. the dog does not respect the person walking them
2. the dog does not trust the person walking them
3. the dog was attacked previously on a leash
4. the dog was able to bite another dog previously while on a leash

These issues will make a dog have strong issues on a leash. The leash binds you and your dog together. The structure of that pack needs a strong leader. If its not you, its gonna be your dog. There is no middle ground here. Either you are the leader, or your dog is.

In the case of fear on a leash, the same 4 rules from above apply with the exception of #4. If a dog is 100% confident with the person walking them, they will enjoy the walk and not act crazy. This role is established from the minute the leash is put on. How the dog acts once the collar and leash is on, who walks in and out of the door first, the communication between man and dog and how the person controls the leash. If you want your dog to get over his fear, then show him that he has nothing to fear by introducing him to dogs that are calm. Let your dog see you push a dog away from him or pull him away from a dog. Have your dog sit before people meet him. Don't let everyone pet your dog. I decide who pets my dog, I decide what dogs my dog meets, I decide everything for my dog... and because I always protect him, he trusts me. My dog looks to me for leadership and therefor does not make stupid decisions.

If you want your dog to live a happy life, structure is the number one gift you can give him. Structure to a dog is like love to a human. The most common mistake people make with dogs is to place love over structure in their interaction with their dog. But this is a struggle that continues and will be a stumbling block for many dog owners and in-experienced dog trainers. The thing people hear is that they need to be rough with their dog or be mean to their dogs. There can be nothing further from the truth. The structure you give your dog is the gift of love.

Separation Anxiety

2008-10-13T23:03:00.000-07:00

This is a subject I've been asked much about, so I'd like to address it here.

Separation anxiety is caused in dogs for several reasons, most of which involve human error. Dogs that panic when they are left alone can exhibit destructive behavior to themselves (licking, biting, stress, etc) as well as destructive behavior to their environment. Dogs that are over-babied, coddled, an/or given more love then structure are prime candidates for separation anxiety. Bottom line is if you make it a big deal that you are leaving, it will be a big deal to your dog. The reason dogs panic when they are left alone is because one of three reasons: 1. they feel that bad things will happen if they are alone, 2. they are dominant and don't want to be left alone or 3. they feel they are made to feel its a big deal to be left alone.

Many people have a ritual of leaving the house and baby talking to their dogs, "Mommy's leaving now, but don't worry baby, she'll be back." As they are walking to the door, a slight look from the door brings the human down to their knees to pat the dog, kiss him, hold him and all the while baby talking. Dogs who are treated like this panic when they are alone because they lack structure. The do not know what its like to be alone and act out. I strongly suggest not making any issue of leaving a dog alone. I start out leaving them alone to go and check my mailbox, then I work up to longer and longer times. Doing spontaneous periods of time, sometimes 5 minutes, then 20 minutes, then 8 minutes.... mix it up.

There are several pieces of advice here.

1. Don't make it a big deal when you leave - just leave

2. Don't make it a big deal when you come back - just come back in

3. Leave the dog something to occupy his time - there are plenty of toys you can hide treats in, toys that are safe can be left with them

4. Leave some music on

5. Contain the dog in a smaller area. Dogs are den animals, they will not see it as a bad thing. Too much freedom can overwhelm a dog.

If your dog starts acting up before you leave, do not scold him and then leave. You should leave on good terms. It is NEVER a good idea to yell at your dog. Yelling is a human characteristic that does not fair well with dogs. Yelling at a dog only makes the condition worse. To get the message through to a dog, you need to be firm and calm.

Training your dog to be alone for periods of time will be a valuable lesson for him. Dogs are pack animals and function best in groups, with dogs or humans, however dogs that have major behavioral or emotional issues from being left alone need to be addressed. Do your dog a favor and make it ok in your dogs mind to be alone. Once they learn that being alone is not a bad thing they will be stronger happier and more stable beings.

Letting Dogs Work It Out

2008-08-28T21:47:00.000-07:00

When a new dog is brought into the home there is often a struggle in the pack. Many people believe that the dogs will work this out themselves, and I'm amazed how many calls I get from people who feel this is good advice. Usually, by the time they call me, they've figured out its not a good idea. There are the exceptions where it does work out, but usually its a recipe for disaster.

Introducing a new dog into your home is something that should be done in a specific way and is often best done by a professional. Allowing the dogs to work it out presents 2 problems.

1. The dogs are left to work it out, when in fact they need you to guide them along. What can they do, what not. It is imperative that YOU work it out and make sure any dogs that live in your house understand that its your rules and you will not "allow them to work it out." This can be highly unfair to your current dog. If your dog suddenly feels threatened by another dog and you do nothing about it, it can be very damaging to your own dogs personality.

2. The cost of vet bills can be considerably more expensive than the cost of the professional you should hire.

On a further note it is important to mention that establishing the roles in the pack is something that will effect the entire life of the dogs. Dogs are very comfortable with roles that are clearly defined and clearly established. However, many people allow their dogs to be aggressive toward one another in hopes that they will work it out. The problem with this is that if one dog is aggressive toward another, the other dog has two choices, take it and submit or fight back. If the submissive dog becomes aggressive as well, it becomes a nightmare to fix the behavior of these two dogs. If one dog acts aggressive toward another the aggressive dog needs immediate attention. This CAN NOT be ignored. It will fester and possibly spread to the other dog. If the aggression is addressed quickly, for the most part, it can be fixed. There are exceptions to this rule, in which case two dogs just can NOT get along and need to always be kept separate, but it takes some time to figure out. A professional trainer / behaviorist is your best bet. Trying to figure this out is very intensive. There are also certain things you can do to restructure your pack, and when followed correctly, can change a dogs behavior.

A dog reacts differently to different dogs he is introduced to. My goal is to have my dog look to me for direction no matter what the behavior of the other dog may be. My dog sees me as his leader and doesn't make a decision, he looks to me to make them for him. This keeps him safe and strengthens the bond between us. People who feel that their dogs should be free to "be a dog" should not own dogs unless they live on several acres where their dog does not have the risk of endangering themselves by being hit by a car, biting a child or destroying a house. Clear and fair leadership will lead to a happy and content dog. Freedom leads to disaster.

When a Dog is Scared - Gilly

2008-08-23T23:58:00.000-07:00

I will write more about Gilly on my Bound Angels Blog, but I thought to share a little story about him here first. To start with, Gilly reminded me so much of my Boots that it brought tears to my eyes meeting him. However, different from Boots, who was a tough guy that just wanted to fight, Gilly was scared of EVERYTHING. I can guarantee that this dog has been severely abused. I was asked to arrange transport through BOUND ANGELS for him to Washington state. I have to say, I was tempted to keep him, he is adorable, but has a major fear issue. This can be a major issue if not addressed properly.

Dealing mainly with dominant and aggressive dogs, I often meet dogs that have become that way because of human error. Most of the time it is very unintentional. People find a dog like Gilly and think that love and affection will cure the problem. The hug and kiss the dog, hold him in their arms and try to "love the problem away." This is a huge mistake. You will not cure fear in a dog by giving it hugs and kisses. You will create a dog that has more fear and bigger issues in the future. What is needed is leadership. The first thing the dog needs is space. Hovering over the dog and babying him will only confirm his insecurities. Dogs function better with aloofness than affection. Be aware of what I am saying here, it is not IGNORING, but ALOOFNESS. You will give the dog attention, but you will not smother him. A dog that is afraid of humans will not learn to trust them by having them invade his space all day long. He will learn to trust if he is given space to develop his personality / temperament and then given structure.

I have recommended that Gilly be given space for a few days. Allow him to feel comfortable and allow his personality to come out. Let him build trust through space and respect. Respect his space and his need to observe his new home and his new family. Feed him, walk him, but don't smother him. As he opens up slowly show him you are a leader of fairness and strength. You will provide for him and shelter him. Whoever the jerk is who abused him deserves a nice share of abuse himself. ANYONE who abuses and animal is the bottom of the barrel in my book. There is NEVER a time to inflict any abuse on a dog or any other animal. I stress abuse here and want to differentiate abuse from correction. All dogs need correction and structure as that is what they get in nature, they do not get abused. Humans abuse dogs sometimes without even knowing it.

What Gilly deserves is a life of structure and compassion and love in which he knows that he is cared for for the rest of his days. He is a most special little man. I wish him well.

Give the Dog what the Dog Needs....

2008-08-07T22:13:00.000-07:00

Probably the number one problem that I see as a trainer and rehabilitator of trouble and aggressive dogs is the emotions they receive from their owners. As humans we put human emotions onto the dog, and this confuses the dog. As humans we function in a human world and strive for equality. We feel safe when we are loved and are all equal. Dogs, do NOT ascribe to this notion. However, we as humans, continue to try and force it upon the dogs. If this is not cruelty, I don't know what is.

A dog functions in a hierarchal world. The stronger dog makes the rules, protects the weaker, decides who fights, who plays, where they go and controls their lives. Its not a community of free love. The dog does not function well in this environment. They become confused and that leads to dominance struggles. If you don't control the dog, the dog will act out and this can lead to behaviors that can become dangerous. They jump up, chew, bark, bite and a plethora of other issues. Its cute in the beginning and when it becomes annoying the dog is cast out. Also the jumping and "play biting" is cute when the dog is small, but this sets a dangerous precedent. If you're dealing with Cockapoos, Teacup Poodles and the like its cute, if you're dealing with Pit Bulls, Chows, Shepherds, etc... its scary.

A dog that does not have a structured life is unpredictable. I've had several dogs lunge at me and test the barriers with me. All this stems from the fact that they received love at a time when they needed structure, they were given freedom when they needed training. People think that training a dog is cruel and selfish. Unfortunately these people are clueless as to what a dog needs and are selfish themselves. EVERY dog I've ever worked with is ecstatic to start training and has a great time during training sessions and is happy afterwards. As much as it would be cruel to slap a collar on a 3 year old child and make him walk on a leash, it is equally cruel NOT to do this to a young dog. Walking on a leash forms a strong bond with you and your dog. Any dog that will eventually be expected to listen off leash, should start on a leash first. You control his environment, protect him, lead him and care for him. From this he will love you, because he respects you. If you give him structure and guidance, he will love you. If you give him freedom, he is not capable of loving you.

DO NOT make the assumption that because your dog is cute that he is a stuffed animal that wants to roll around on the ground and cuddle with you. All dogs, regardless of size or breed are hard wired with strong instincts and drives. A good trainer will use these instincts and drives to develop a structure that works for the particular dog. I stress here that all dogs are not the same. Each dog requires a unique approach, however ALL dogs have similar instincts. To understand this is to understand what the dog needs, NOT what you need from your dog.

Focus on what your dog needs from you and ask yourself if you are capable of giving that to your dog. That is being a responsible partner for your canine friend.

Happiness can be a Deadly Problem

2008-07-30T14:08:00.000-07:00

One thing that really annoys me about pet owners is the complacency on fixing problems that "seem" cute at the surface, but eventually "are NOT cute."

One such case is a dog in a local shelter here in LA. The dog jumps on people and was placed and returned and is now scheduled to be killed. The thing that keeps surfacing in the mails is that it's OK to be happy. Well, as a person who works with trouble dogs, I say that its OK to be happy, but teach your dog to express it in different ways. If your dog jumps up, it is displaying some sort of unruly behavior. This can be very playful to a dog, but it can be dangerous with older people or children. For that, the dog will suffer. Teach your dog NOT to jump up on people from an early age and the dog will have a much better chance at learning it.

The way to train a dog NOT to jump on people is not by yelling at them or hitting them when they do it. This only reenforces the behavior. People are constantly making excuses for their dogs behavior without looking at the repercussions, and that is SELFISH. Read my blog at BOUND ANGELS and see how many dogs are killed for behavioral problems, if people were only not so selfish and took the time to correct a dogs problems. Dogs should be well behaved family pets that we care for, protect and love. If they are well adjusted, they generally don't act out, and thereby "generally" don't end up in shelters and get killed.

The problem with jumping is as follows. If a small dog jumps up on a big person, its cute. If a large dog jumps up on a small child and knocks the child down, its not cute, or if its an older person its also not cute. A dog that is out of control will jump and run and act like a goofball whenever they like. These "out of control" dogs are on the short list for the kill shelters of America, and all the selfish, non-correcting dog owners are NOT beating down the doors at the shelter to save them. They are on to another cute puppy.

When your dog jumps up on you, do not acknowledge him. Turn away. Pushing him down generally starts a game with him. My favorite way of correcting this behavior is to acknowledge the dog for NOT doing the bad behavior. If the dog runs up too fast, you can use a long line and correct the dog before he gets to his target. When the dog sits, the dog gets a treat, a toy or praise. Generally this problem can be solved very quickly. Acknowledge your dog for good behavior. Don't instigate him by getting him excited enough to jump on you. Throw him a ball in a yard to get his enthusiasm up. Jumping up on people is NOT cute and it leads to a maladjusted dog.

If you really LOVE your dog, you will instill in him positive behaviors that will protect him or her.

4th of July - NOT A GOOD DAY FOR DOGS

2008-07-03T12:46:00.000-07:00

Please read this post if you have a dog:

Traditionally the 4th of July is a very bad day for dogs because of the fear and instinctual tendencies that are triggered with fireworks. Dogs become very skittish from the sounds of explosions as well as the whining and whistling sounds of rockets and other fireworks. A dogs hearing is 100 times more sensitive than ours, so there is no doubt that these sounds cut to the core of the dog.

At the times surrounding this holiday when humans are having fun, remember that this is a torturous time for your dog and all dogs. Dogs that are spooked by these sounds often run away and keep running. It is commonly a very busy time for animal shelters as many dogs end up in shelters around the 4th of July.. Which means, more dogs are killed to make room for the incoming. If you have any interest in the highly problematic KILL shelters in our society, I urge you to visit my Bound Angels Blog, the link to which is at the right.

Some simple steps to take to protect your dog:

1. keep your dog inside

2. if your dogs must stay outside, be sure the fence is strong and tall enough to contain him (however I recommend bringing dogs inside where there are lots of fireworks)

3. since your do is going into a state of fear, it is not a good idea to coddle the dog. it is much better to use a strong loving tone, assuring your dog "its ok.. you're a good dog."

4. playing music in your house, can distract the dog from outside noises

5. some of his/her favorite treats is a good distraction

The most obvious thing to remember is to distract the dog from the fear they are facing. Brushing/grooming, playing... anything to keep them busy. I say don't coddle them, since it shows weakness. The dog is a pack animal and looks to the alpha (which should be you) for strength. A leader does not coddle, but instead assures the dog that they are safe. This is an important thing to remember.

Training that's Fair for the Dog

2008-06-27T23:57:00.001-07:00

People ask me why I train dogs and the answer is simple, because I LOVE dogs. I love all animals, but dogs have become such a special part of my life and have formed a special bond with me. I understand them, and they understand me. I am perplexed at peoples attitude toward training a dog, and that they consider certain methods mean and cruel.

Basically anything that is strong in the area of correction is considered mean. Unfortunately, what I consider mean in training a dog, is to expect the dog to understand human language and emotions. For a dog that is used to his instincts to suddenly be made to understand that I will "ask" it what to do and reward it with a treat.

When using rewards, they are that, we give the dog a treat or a game of tug to reward a proper behavior. The reason for this is that the dog relates the treat as something he likes, it is coming from you, therefor he relates this back to you and understands that he is doing what we like.

One of the worst things I can imagine is the people that send their dogs off to be trained. They expect someone to take their dogs issues and make them go away and bring them back a perfectly behaved animal. I personally would never trust my dog to "go away" with someone. I want to know what is going on in my dogs life. I have fixed many dog issues in one or two sessions with people who understand it, guided many people along in their training of their dogs and consulted many through this blog and helped them. They key thing to all of this is that I give the people the opportunity to work with their dogs. The fact that the trainer can get the dog to do what they need him to do is not the issue. The owner of the dog needs to be able to do that. The ONLY way that will work is if the dog sees the owner as their leader. A dog is a master of opportunity and will see through a weak leader immediately. Dogs are better judges of character than you or I will ever be.

The way to get your dog to listen to you is not to give him a treat and hug and kiss him and use a clicker. The key to getting your dog to follow you is to be his leader. This structure re-organizing needs to be present in everything you do from the morning to the night. The way you speak to him and the way you avoid him. Every piece of your interaction must be structured toward you being your dogs leader. Its imperative for me to mention here that a leader to a dog must be fair. Being a jerk to a dog and yanking him around pretending your tough is NOT a leader, its a bully. Being a leader means being FAIR. If the dog doesn't know what you expect of him, you CAN NOT correct him for that mistake.

Why is this so important? Why not just cuddle the dog and let him be as he is? Several reasons... one is that the dog lives in a human world. There are cars, poisons, obstacles and more all around your dog that could cause him harm. If you call your dog and he chooses not to listen, he very well may run into the street and get hit by a car. If your dog does not obey you and runs over to a person and bites them, he's gonna get killed. The main problem that people don't understand with dogs is that love and respect are very different in this world. If a dog loves you and doesn't respect you, the love is useless. A dog can love you and not respect you. However, if the dog respects you, it is greater than love. Please don't confuse fear for respect. I mean respect. You earn respect, you'll earn it from you dog.

Gain your dogs respect and you have a friend for life.

Beyond Leash Control - a Dummies Guide

2008-06-12T22:37:00.000-07:00

It never ceases to amaze me how often I see people with their dogs off-leash. There are few things that get my goat as much as this... for several reasons. For those who feel they are giving their dogs "freedom" - you are wrong - DEAD wrong. Yes, a dog does like to run free, and for that very reason it is imperative that they be leashed. People walk their dogs on busy streets, load them in and out of cars, take them across the street, all off leash. What these folks don't grasp is that a dogs capacity to think is easily startled. No matter how well trained your dog is, he is likely to be startled by something and totally lose his bearings. I can tell you this from an experience with a friend. He has a doberman that I would consider one of the best trained dogs that I have known. We were at the beach and suddenly the dog decided to run up to the highway. Luckily he caught up with the dog, and the dog was saved. However, this could have ended up much differently.

There are many other reasons to keep your dog on a leash if you love your dog. If someone else is walking by with their dog dog leashed, it will create a conflict that you will be unable to control. The leashed dog will trigger an instinct in your dog and the two dogs more than likely will have an issue. Children may approach your unleashed dog and since you are unable to control your dog he may become playful, chasing and/or playing with the child or worse yet may attack the child. Yes, these are flukes, but they happen. There is a time to have your dog free and off leash. That time is in your back yard and when the dog is playing with other dogs that he may be familiar with or playing with you. Since I do not recommend dog parks, for reasons that I will explain at another time, I would rule that out as well.

If you are responsible and love your dog, and would like to keep him alive and with you, a leash is an imperative tool. Dogs live in a human world. In a human world, unfortunately there are many things to protect your dog from. The safest and sanest way to do this is by having your dog on a leash and in control at all times.

Leash Control

2008-06-04T16:34:00.000-07:00

It never ceases to surprise me how many people have problems with leash control. Their dogs are constantly pulling them on their leash and the collar ends up choking the dog. Then, the main complaint is that the walks are not enjoyable. If the walk seems un-enjoyable to the person holding the leash, imagine how it must feel to the creature at the other end of the lead.

Gaining proper leash control is something that will enhance the relationship between human and canine. Also, having a good handle on the leash will make your dog feel more comfortable, less aggressive and more responsive to you. Leash control is one of the basics that a dog must be taught before progressing to any further levels. A dog that pulls on a leash will be difficult to train to do most other things. That being said, it is important to use the proper leash.

Many people like to use the retractable - flexi leads that are very popular. There is a place for them, and I will discuss that later. The ideal leash for training and control is a 6' leather lead, sometimes the nylon ones can be good as well. I'll leave that up to you. The key is that it is 6 feet long and that you know how to use it. If you have 6 feet of lead, that means you can control your dog at any level up to 6 feet away. The dog should not walk at the end of this 6 foot lead, but should be allowed some free reign therein. If the dog is pulling at the end of the lead, he should be corrected and made to walk next to you. The same holds true if he is lagging too far behind. Ideally the dog walks next to you with slack in the lead. That means that he is walking and paying attention to you instead of pulling on the lead and dragging you along. Bear in mind that a dog who is constantly pulling on the lead will often times be more aggressive than a dog who walks on a loose leash.

If you want you dog to enjoy walks, and that is what they are--walks - not drags, then you will need to be sure that your dog walks next to you. If he needs to sniff somewhere or do his duty, he can do it at the end of the lead. That is why you have the flexibility of 6 feet. The flexibility is NOT there for him to pull at the end of it. Imagine holding your child's hand and dragging him everywhere, or vis a vis.

Dogs are not miserable on a leash, and people who don't use leashes on their dogs are clueless as to how important a leash is. A leash will give your dog structure and also protection. Dogs now live in a human world. There are many many things that could hurt them or potentially kill them. Giving your dog the "freedom" to be off leash is giving him the possibility to be killed by a car, getting lost, getting attacked and more. Keep your dog next to you and allow him to run around in your back yard. If you feel he needs more exercise, put on some running shoes and get some exercise with him.

OFF leash is not a good idea in areas where there is a risk of an accident. Just because your dog is "good off leash" is not a reason to put it to the test. I see people with their dogs off leash on busy streets all the time. I think these people are absolutely crazy. The slightest distraction can cause even the best trained dog to "slip." And one slip is all it takes to lose your best friend.

Introducing a new dog to the house.

2008-05-30T17:35:00.001-07:00

I received an email from a lady recently on the proper way to bring a new dog into the house.. here's my reply:

The most important thing for all dogs is a proper introduction into a new home. Usually I suggest hiring a pro to do it, as if it is done wrong it can set the stage for a long road of troubles. What is important in the overall picture is the structure that dogs need. When I introduce dogs into a home, I always have them meet on neutral ground first. Allow them to see each other, then allow them to sniff each other, then walk them together, then bring them carefully into the home. I prefer to leave the leashes on them when they first get back into the house, makes things a lot simpler if you need to control on of the dogs. I am not a big fan of crates, so the tether allows you some control here.

You must remember that not all dogs will get along. Sometimes the behavior can be fixed, usually by a professional, if it can't you will forever be keeping them separate. Dogs function in a pack mentality. That means they understand where they fall in the pack. If this structure is not established by the leader, they will scramble to try and establish it. That being said, I don't like leads that tether dogs without the control of you. You need to draw these boundaries i.e. no furniture, certain rooms off limits, no playing with certain things in the house, etc.

Of primary importance is feeding, walking and affection. The leader dog, your primary dog will get fed first, affection first, walked first, etc. If another tries to get jealous or assertive, you will need to correct them. YOU determine the structure. When you have big dogs, its important that they respect you. Respect must come before love. They will walk all over someone they love, but will always love someone they respect. Simple solution.

There are a million little things you need to focus on when you have more than one dog. However, once you have it in check, you could not have a better situation. Behavior patterns in dogs are sometimes tough for people to read, as they misread play growling and barking for aggression. This is something that shelters screw up and kill dogs for all the time. Dogs will bite and play rough, they are dogs. You will determine when enough is enough. Setting boundaries and structure into the pack will help them settle in to each other and anything else you throw at them.

My method is positive reinforcement, with little or no verbal corrections. A very rogue concept in dog training, and almost impossible to explain in email. However, please read my blog at www.blackbeltdogtraining.com and I'm sure it will shed some light on my methods.

I hope this helps a little :)

Best,

Robert

Black Belt Dog Training

Misguided Molly

2008-05-22T00:22:00.000-07:00

Last week I was asked to visit a dog that had been showing signs of depression. I drove to Santa Barbara and met Molly and her mom and dad, Sue and John. This was about the most perfect family I had met. John and Sue are about the nicest people you could imagine and Molly is just a little sweetheart. She shares her life with Cody, a blind and deaf Daschshund mix. BTW, Cody is the alpha dog, although weighing only about 1/4 of what Molly weighs. Molly timidly licks the tears from Cody's blind eyes and cleans his ears ever so gently. It really is sweet. So why was I, the guy who deals with "killer dogs" asked to visit Molly? My friend knows that I "sense" the dogs energy, and thought it would be a good fit. It was.

I sat and talked to John and Sue for a while and picked up on Molly's spirit. It became almost immediately evident to me that Molly was reaching out for the love of John. Molly was very bonded with Sue and is Sue's dog. John is a man's man, tough and strong. I knew Molly wanted to have a bond with John, so I immediately put that on the table and gave them several exercises to do together. At first Molly was a little confused, but picked up on it very quickly. At first she looked over at Sue and me for assurance, but quickly bonded with John and the two of them formed a bond that was long overdue.

The second day Sue, Molly and I went through some basic exercises and established to Molly that she is very important, gave her some exercises she would do to get rewards--- remember dogs love to please, so giving them an exercise to complete in order to gain praise is better than giving praise for no reason. This is just what Molly wanted and needed.

My only request with my dogs is that I ask the humans to follow the exercises I give for the prescribed amount of time after I leave. Well, John and Sue did exactly that, and today, less than a week later, Molly is doing much better. I received an email from Sue yesterday and I am very happy to hear that great news.

Its important to remember that the way dogs respond is not always too easy to figure out. Dogs have an instinct that they still follow. Even though they have been domesticated for thousands of years, they still follow their drive which makes them feel safe. To understand a dog, you need to think like a dog, and that is hard for most humans, as we tend to over think things. Proper training can only be executed if you understand the dogs needs. And, as I always try to remind people, not all dogs will respond to the same kind of training. Good training is geared toward the individual dog and can not be taken from the pages of a manual or DVD. Before you hire a trainer, be certain that their goal is to understand your dog first, then train them.

Thanks for reading.... As always, I welcome your comments and emails.

Robert

www.blackbeltdogtraining.com

The Right Reward

2008-05-12T19:20:00.000-07:00

Before I start this post, I'd like to remind the reader that most of the dogs that I deal with are not the ones that come from your local pet store or breeder. I deal with the dogs that others have given up on, the ones that come off of death row at the animal shelter... yeah, the dogs that humans have all but given up on. These are my babies, the ones I rehabilitate and help. Now that we've gotten that out of the way, please read the rest of this post with that in mind when I talk about the proper way to reward and train dogs.

There are people on both sides of the issue of using food based rewards for dog training. The one thing everyone agrees on is that proper behavior should be rewarded. Of course there are those who think the dog should just do what he's told and believe in forcing the dog until he complies. These people are not dog trainers and have little clue on the behavior pattern of dogs. I am a firm believer in strong corrections, but more importantly believe in stronger praise and reward. Jerking a dog around to get them to do what you want them to do is not only wrong, it is stupid. Dogs are known as mans best friend because of the bond we share, and as you may notice, if you praise a dog verbally, his tail will wag.... proving he understands the praise.

That being said, we can address the issue of rewards for training. I do use food based rewards in training. The key element to remember is that it is a "reward." The mistake many people make is giving the dog too much of a reward when it is not necessary. Doing this takes the "reward" aspect out of the issue and makes it "the norm." Using an intermittent reward system properly conditions a dog to see the true reward as the praise, and the food reward or toy reward is just another bonus.

It is also important to realize the personality of the dog that you are training. If the dog is not "food motivated" treats will do you little good. At this point I would suggest you reevaluate what treats you are using. I have seen very few dogs that are not food motivated to at least something. The exception to this rule is a dog who is in some sort of shock and is not responding to food based rewards because of this. Some dogs may respond better to verbal praise or physical touch than treats, and also toys such as tugs. In any situation, dog training is dog specific. You need to understand your dog in order to understand how best to train him. A dog can not be trained from a manual written about "all dogs." It is first and foremost important to understand your dog, what motivates him, his likes and dislikes in order to be fair in his training. In any case, I whole heartedly advocate the use of rewards for proper behavior, whether it is treats or praise, figure out what motivates your dog and give it to him when he performs.

Food treats can be weaned in time and should be used in conjunction with verbal praise. There are 3 phases to the training technique. I'll talk more about this in another post. But basically:

1. you tell you dog to do something

2. you show him what it is you are telling him to do

3. you praise him / reward him when he does it

Notice I did not say, "You ask your dog to do something." Dogs do not respond well to requests. The tone of your voice is the direction from which your dog takes direction. The tone more so than the actual words. Using a firm voice is what your dog understands. Wishy washy tones are used for praise and reward, commanding tones are used for orders.

There are those who believe that a firm voice with a dog is wrong. These are the same people who believe that training a dog is taking the life and freedom out of your dog. I'll talk more about this in another blog, but basically these people do not understand dogs, and don't love the dog enough to give them the leadership they require. Dogs want a leader, they need a leader, without a leader they are dead. If you can not lead your dog, you are allowing him to lead himself in a world he is not capable of dealing with, a world that will have him getting out, lost, hurt or killed in a shelter.

The Fear Biter

2008-05-03T20:19:00.000-07:00

The other day I was introduced to an adorable little dog that had the habit of biting visitors. Upon first meeting this little firecracker, who is close to 13 years old, I observed a cute little guy that stood in a corner and shook. His little legs were wobbly from shaking. When he saw me, he ran over and immediately began biting at my shoes. This is clearly a sign of fear biting and not aggressive behavior in the ordinary sense. However it is something that needed to be dealt with. He was an older man, so approaching him as you might a younger, stronger powerful dog will not work. He needed a clear approach that would make sense to him. First off, his owner would have to take control and become a stronger leader. With a few simple exercises we were able to accomplish this. Next we had to address some underlying issues this little man had about the way he was approached. He was very head-shy, which is a typic sign that the dog was abused. Building confidence in a dog is a good way to eliminate negative behaviors.

If a dog is biting, barking, growling or exhibiting any strange behavior it is important to evaluate the behavior before you try to solve the problem. Much like a mechanic would test drive the car before he begins taking apart the engine, so should your dog be properly evaluated before trying to solve a problem. Simply jumping in with a "standard training approach" can cause more damage to a dogs already temperamental behavior.

How is Dog Training Like a Diet?

2008-04-24T16:12:00.000-07:00

I know this may sound funny at first, but its an analogy that will make great sense once understood. During my many years of teaching martial arts, my students came to understand it quite well. Simply stated, as long as you're on a diet, you're ok. Once you stop, you start gaining weight again.

So lets apply that to dog training. The basics to training a dog is to get the dog to understand what you want him to do and then have him do it. If I tell Spot to sit and he sits, he gets rewarded and knows he did a good thing. If he hears the command repeatedly and does it correctly, he gets rewarded repeatedly. Are you starting to see the pattern? If, after the initial training phase, I assume my dog knows his commands and then don't repeat them, Spot will forget. It will be a slow process, but eventually the training will deteriorate.

It is highly unfair to teach a dog something and expect them to remember it without continually reinforcing it. If I ask you your first phone number, I bet you can't remember it. That's kinda how it is for your dog. The best thing you can do is repeat the training commands often, and make a game out of it.

Many times when I walk my dog, I will, for no reason put him on a sit stay, a down stay, have him heel, etc. When I say for no reason, I mean that it is not necessary for anything but reinforcing his training. By repeating his commands and rewarding him for correctly doing what I have taught him, I am strengthening his core ability to respond when and if I need him to.

The amount of effort people spend on getting their dogs trained is contradictory to the amount of effort they spend maintaining that training. Of course, coming full circle, people spend thousands on diets and gym memberships in January only to have to start all over again the next year.

If you'd like to be sure that your dog maintains his abilities, repeat his training regularly. It is a fun exercise and bonds owner and companion very well.

Adding Fuel to the Fire

2008-04-13T20:39:00.000-07:00

One of the most common mistakes people make when their dog becomes aggressive is yell at them. This is truly adding fuel to the fire. If a dog barks at another dog, it must first be understood if it is an aggressive bark, posturing or playful. Most of this can be observed if you know your dog or by observing body posture. In general, a dog puts the front part of their body lower than their hind side when they are playful. Tail position up and wagging is playful, down and straight is not. Hair on back standing up can usually be interpreted as posturing behavior. Obviously I can not teach how to evaluate a dog here in words, as it is a learned skill, however if you know your dog well enough, you will be able to tell some basics.

That being said I'd like to address the point of this blog and that is "adding fuel to the fire." The title should pretty much explain what it is that happens when you yell at your dog. Aggression begets aggression. There is a huge difference between dominance and aggression. When you are the alpha of your dog / when you protect them, you control them and keep them from getting you and themselves into trouble. Dominance or alpha does not involve yelling, hitting or any human definition. For the purpose of this blog I'll address a dog that barks or becomes unruly around another dog. Lets first address the cause, before we address the solution. Puppies who are poorly socialized are prime targets for dog to dog aggression, as are dogs that are constantly scolded for barking.

Distraction is the key to keeping your dog in line. It is a tool I use constantly. If a dog starts to move toward another dog, turn and walk in the other direction. If your dog follows you, reward him -- preferably with love and/ or a treat. More on that another day. If he continues to pull toward the other dog, do NOT drag him. Leash control should be done with tugs, not by dragging your dog. Change direction as many times as necessary to get your dog to follow you. Each and every time he follows you, reward and praise him. Each and every time he does not follow you change direction and ignore him. Do NOT yell at him, or correct him or explain to him what he is doing wrong. Its better that you read War and Peace to him than explain what he is doing wrong. HE CAN NOT UNDERSTAND YOU... I promise.

Show him what you want him to do, get him to do it, and reward him for doing it. THAT is the basics of Dog Training. Dog training is simple, so simple in fact that it might be too simple for people to apply it.

Discipline without Anger

2008-04-07T18:27:00.000-07:00

I'm often asked how to "correct" a dogs behavior. The other day I met a gentleman who was having some behavior problems with his Pit Bull. The dog would play and play, then suddenly get aggressive. The man yelled at his dog, the dog would stop, the man would then continue to yell at the dog, then walk away in disgust. The simple thing to remember is that the dog does not understand English (or any other language for that matter).

The most common mistake I see people make in trying to train their dogs is frustration and anger directed at the dog. Even though the dog does not understand the words, they do "feel the vibe." Whether you believe it or not, dogs have a sixth sense that some, actually most, humans can not understand. When you are frustrated it gives off almost the same vibe to your dog as fear. The dog will relate to this. If your dog is doing something wrong, he needs to be corrected instantly, not when he is done. A correction is a correction, not a conversation. If your dog jumps and you correct him when he's not jumping you are creating a confusion for the dog. Even correcting him verbally can often be confusing for the dog unless it is a short word. The correction must come at the exact time as the violation. If he jumps, he needs to be corrected in mid jump. If he snaps, it must be corrected when he is snapping. Once the dog is done, he has forgotten and you can not expect to "explain" to him that he "did" something wrong. The dog understands what he is doing, not necessarily what he did.

Expecting your dog to understand what he did wrong is placing a human emotion / understanding onto the dog, and this is very unfair. If you don't catch your dog in the act, don't correct him. If you catch him and strive to correct him, make it something he understands. If he jumps on the sofa, push him off as he lands on the sofa, not once he's settled down. The correction has to be immediate. If he jumps up on you, and your dog is bigger than 20 lbs or so, it is something that you should work on correcting. The reason I say this is because a dog that jumps is a danger around children and old people. Do not reprimand the dog for jumping, but rather praise him when he doesn't jump. Corrections should be non verbal, praise should be verbal. Correcting a dog who jumps on people is something that should be explained and demonstrated by a professional trainer so as not to build bad habits in the dog.

The Absolute Alpha

2008-03-26T22:54:00.000-07:00

The Absolute Alpha is a term that I use to define the "true way" to lead.

In the event that you are not aware of the basic concept of Black Belt Dog Training (even after reading the name)... the philosophy stems from my background in traditional martial arts. If you understand the ways of the traditional martial arts, you must embrace the way of Zen. In Zen, everything is nothing and nothing is everything. That is to say, in this situation you must become everything, yet remain humble.

I see so many people yelling at their dogs, jerking them around, hitting them and fighting with them in a feeble attempt to prove to the dog that they are the alpha. The true alpha does not need to show it by means of force. Yes, there are times you will need to be strong with your dog, very strong. But if properly done, your dog will understand that you are the alpha and you won't have to prove it every day. If your dog doesn't "get it" perhaps you are not showing it in the right way.

To be an Absolute Alpha, you must show more compassion than aggression, you must love more than you correct, you must understand more than you expect to be understood. If this all sounds like a bunch of New Age mumbo jumbo... you are wrong. These principles date back hundreds perhaps thousands of years.

To put the concept simply, yes your dog must respect you, but respect and fear are very different concepts. The stronger one is respect. As respect can contain love, fear does not. If you have love, then your dog will want to please out of love not fear. Love will drive your dog to do anything to please you, fear will drive him to do just what you want him to do at the moment you ask, and only because he's afraid.

Love is the first thing I embrace in any dog I train. Respect comes next, as well as understanding. I am the more evolved of the two of us, so I must understand more than I expect to be understood. That is the basic principle of the absolute alpha. Complete compassion, love and understanding is what the dog I am training can expect from me, therefor when I expect proper behavior in return, its a very fair trade in the dogs mind. Wouldn't it be in yours too? This is not to say I am not strong with the dogs I train, I believe that a dog needs a strong hand, but that hand should come from a place of love, not anger.

Aggressive Dogs vs. Aggressive Behavior

2008-03-26T14:40:00.000-07:00

I'm sure I'll be addressing this issue again and again, as I have so many times in the past. Countless times I've been asked to evaluate a dog that has been labelled "aggressive" that actually just exhibited some aggressive behavior.

So.. what's the difference? Simple, If I upset you, slap you, taunt you or annoy you, you might act aggressive, even if you are not an aggressive person. A person who is a bully, is violent or abusive is aggressive in nature.

Often times, even in play, a dogs actions may be misconstrued as aggressive, when they in fact are nothing less than just a dog acting like a dog. A dog might snap when he is handled in a certain way because of an injury or a memory of upbringing or history of abuse. Each dog needs to be seen as an individual. Some dogs love their ears rubbed, others may snap if you touch their heads.

To label a dog as aggressive, is a strong statement, this assessment should only be made by a qualified trainer and after much research. The reason I say this is because aggressive dogs have little hope for survival. If a dog is labeled aggressive in a shelter, they are likely to be killed right away. I've rehabilitated plenty of "aggressive dogs" from shelters, that needed extra attention, some others that were labelled aggressive, just had issues that I was able to work with for one session and completely turn them around with an evaluation, these dogs were just a bit timid or shy. Often shy dogs and dogs with a skittish personality will appear aggressive, when they are just scared. Dogs don't act scared like humans do, so it requires a deeper look by a person who understands the behavior of a dog. Just because a dog has a strong personality and doesn't want to do what you want him to do, does not mean he is aggressive.

If a dog is exhibiting aggressive behavior, give them time, don't approach them too quickly. Just sit and wait. It does no good to approach an aggressive dog in an aggressive way. This will not solve the issue of aggression. I've seen that all too often. Untrained people will try to dominate an aggressive dog to "break them." This generally only contributes more to the problem and the aggression gets worse.

The best solution to evaluating a dog for aggression vs. aggressive behavior is time and a keen, compassionate eye.

Find out just what it is that is triggering the dogs behavior.

If that trigger can be removed, the aggressive behavior can be fixed.

After 20 some years in the martial arts, why in the world did I decide to train dogs?

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The answer is very simple, I think its the right thing to do. I see so many people frustrated with their dogs, and its almost never the dogs fault, its merely a lack of communication. I've helped many people with their dogs, rehabilitated dogs and seeing the positive results is always very rewarding. I am a huge animal lover, all animals. Everything I do revolves around my love for animals... including choosing to be a vegetarian. I have a connection with animals that allows me to communicate with them on a different level than most people. I draw upon this connection when training or consulting. Each dog is different and must be approached in a unique way.

I am very active in dog rescue and work with local shelters here in LA. I've rescued many dogs from shelters, rehabilitated several and pulled others off of death row with some simple behavior modifications. I believe there are no bad dogs, only communication blocks between humans and their dogs.

Most of the dogs that come to me for training are the ones considered "trouble dogs," including: Chows, Pit Bulls, Sharpei, Dobermans among others. When other training methods fail, mine generally work very well.

My techniques are simple, and only require time and dedication. I teach and communicate in dog training very similarly as I do when teaching traditional martial arts. I do not feel there is much of a difference, henceforth a similar approach.

I invite you to subscribe to my blog and mail me your questions and thoughts.

Regards,

Robert