Using Dominant Based Corrections on Fearful Dogs

One of the most important subjects pressing people today is the use of dominant based corrections on dogs. I'll go on record here to say that most people using them, are using them incorrectly, unfairly and are doing more harm than good. These so called trainers are not aware how to analyze a dogs behavior, instead they apply a blanket strategy to any dog that is acting out. They call it "AGGRESSION."

I will post an article relating to Classifying Canine Behavior. However, I would like to address the single most important mistake that I see made. That is people who use dominant corrections on a fearful dog. There is so much wrong with this that I don't know where to begin. The biggest problem with this is that it does nothing to fix the problem, and more often than not, will increase the "aggression" in the dog and / or develop much larger and worry-some issues in the dog.

Dogs that are fearful should NOT be given dominant based corrections. The corrections include, remote collars, prong collars, alpha rolls, etc. Using a motivational based approach, including marker training will bring the dog along much better. Giving the dog structure and strengthening the core of the dog will eliminate the fear and solve the problem. Correcting the dog with the wrong technique will only increase the dogs fear and create a larger problem. If the original problem was based on fear, and we use a technique that further scares the dog or makes him more fearful, it would be obvious that the problem will continue and eventually get worse.

Many trainers or handlers are looking for a "quick fix" and feel that correcting the dog strongly will solve the issue. This is bad all the way around. I've rehabilitated many truly dominant and aggressive dogs, and it takes time. If the owners of the dog are not willing to do the work, they should get rid of the dog. If they try the quick fix method, chances are the dog will eventually go off and cause more damage. Fixing the dog is hard work, but well worth the effort.

Evaluating a dog for fear vs. dominant based aggression should be done by a professional. This is not an evaluation to be taken lightly. One thing for sure is that there are more dogs acting out of fear based aggression than dominant based aggression. The reason for this is simple, dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years. A seriously aggressive dog is rare, however dogs that act out of fear are quite common. This is primarily a result of improper socialization in the early phases of a dogs life. If improper training is used, the dog will eventually get to a place that can not be corrected.

Dog training must always be fair to the dog, even if it is not that easy on the person employing it. Evaluating a dog for a proper behavior is as crucial as a proper prescription for the right medicine. Just jumping in and correcting a dog that is fearful, will only serve the ego of the jerk that is training the dog. Our goal should be one of compassion.

Dominance in Corrections

This seems to be a topic that is very misunderstood among dog handlers, trainers as well as the community at large. I recently read an article on line of the AVA's guidelines on corrections as they relate to dominance. The main topic seems to be the "alpha roll," which I will address in detail at another time. For right now I can tell you that it is wrong and dangerous. No matter what you see on TV, I don't advocate that you try it. Its not something your dog will understand, and more than likely he will rebel against it.

When addressing dominance, we first must be able to understand the difference between true dominance, aggression and a dog being a dog. If a dog is just being a dog and we correct him for that in a dominant way, we are being unfair to the dog and our training will go nowhere. Determining if a behavior is aggressive in nature should be determined by a professional. By a professional I mean a professional that is used to dealing with this type of situation. Its not your neighborhood dog trainer. Get referrals and research before you hire someone. A flashy business card or webpage is usually not the credentials you are looking for. See what kind of experience they've had in dealing with aggression, get referrals and call.

Most behaviors that people see as "dominant or aggressive" are not that at all. I deal with serious behavioral problem dogs through rescue and at the shelters that I work with. In private, I can tell you that more than 50% of the people that call me with so called aggressive dogs, have dogs that lack structure. Applying dominant level corrections would do little to fix the problem and more than likely would exacerbate the problem.

PLEASE, do your research. Your dog has no one to appeal to except for you. You should be fair to him and take his best interests to your heart. Breaking a dog of bad behavior involves lots of work and time, its worth it, believe me. Yanking a fearful dog around will not fix him. On the other hand, taking a truly aggressive dog and offering him a treat to not kill the cat, will not work either.

Unfortunately everyone thinks they are a dog trainer, and all dog trainers think they can handle aggression. This is false. Behavioral issues must be addressed by someone who is skilled in evaluating the dog fairly and someone who has a competent approach to fixing it.

Dog Training Just Like a Diet

I am often perplexed by people who take their dog training as serious as the New Years Diet. That is, they do it for a while and then let it go. In this situation everyone suffers: the people, the dog, the people who come into contact with the dog, the dogs that come into contact with the dog and eventually the system when the dog is dumped into a shelter.

To start out with I will say, "If you don't have the time, patience or persistence for a dog, get a stuffed pet." Dogs evolve and need continuous attention. Whether you hired a professional trainer or not - you will need to continue to work with your dog for the rest of his life. That is not to say you must engage in regimented training every day for the dogs life, but some degree of training should continue to keep your dog sharp. Positive re enforcement, basic obedience, play sessions, etc. must continue as your relationship evolves and as your dog matures. Dogs may not forget what they've learned, but dogs love to continue to be challenged.

When people spend 8-12 weeks training their dogs and then move on to the next fad, they get just what they invested.... very little. Once the dog is grounded in some basic training, it opens the door for a solid relationship. The relationship grows as the dog now knows how to relate to you.

What a dog learns in basic training is how to listen and how to learn. What the human should learn is how to relate to the dog in a manner that is fair. Once we've crossed this bridge, its a shame to throw it all away and just let it be. If you've taken the time to work with a trainer, book a session once every 6 months or so and touch up your training. There will be many fine tuning points that can keep training interesting for a long time. If your trainer is not available for a quick touch up session, find one that is. Reputable trainers will be more than happy to fine tune techniques, commands and training at any phase.

Don't let the relationship with your dog whither. Working a dog is the single strongest bond you will form with him.

Quitting dog training once you've achieved your basic goals is like celebrating your weight loss with a chocolate cake.

Behaviors Don't Fix Themselves

Dogs are creatures of survival. They find what works and keep doing it. Their behaviors don't change, they simply adapt. If they are heading in a direction of aggression, they will continue in that direction until it stops working. Dogs are masters of opportunity and will use this skill to push any behaviors that are not put into check.

That being said, I'd like to focus on this issue for this post. If a dog attacks another dog, and then does it again, it is NO LONGER and ISOLATED incident. If a dog attacks, bites or shows aggression on more than one occasion, its an issue. I can't tell you how many calls I get and how many clients that hire me after their dog has gone nearly off the deep end. People always think it was just an "incident." Often times these incidents stem from improper integration into a home, an owner who does not show the dog the structure it needs, or improper socialization on a leash. Whatever the reason is not important here, what I'd like to stress is that the behavior will not right itself on its own.

If a dog shows even the slightest signs of aggression, and please understand that there is a difference between dominance and aggression, it is something that should be addressed. A dog should understand that his decisions are based on choices that you allow him to make. Its not up to my dog if he can or can not meet a dog, that choice is up to me. Depending how he acts, he may or may not meet another dog. My dog follows my lead and because of that he enjoys great amounts of freedom. He understands by following my rules and good behavior he gets to do lots of fun things: he meets lots of friends, gets to run around on the beach, doesn't have to live in a crate in the house, and much much more.

Before a dog has the opportunity to make a mistake, it is important that the human has put some basic structure down. If the dog doesn't listen, he doesn't get freedom. When the dog listens to basic commands, he can meet people. Once my dog understands what NO means, he can start to see the world through a wider scope. I don't want a dog that will jump up on people and I say "NO," and he doesn't understand what that means. I don't introduce a dog to another dog, let alone a pack until I know he is balanced and will fit into the pack - and also to be certain that it is a balanced pack that I am introducing my dog into. Any dog I introduce my dog to is one I feel somewhat safe about. Throwing your dog out there to meet another random dog is stupid and dangerous to your best friend.

All of these things take time, but they are worth the effort. Once the initial work is done, you must continue to do your homework, because as I stated at the start of this post, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will look for an opening or a weakness to exploit. That is the key to their survival in the wild. However, when they live under our roofs we can take that survival drive out of them and allow them to function as calm - cool members of society.

If your dog acts out once or twice it is important to address the situation. I can promise you from experience that their wrongs will not right themselves. Their aggression will not go away.

It Starts With Your Relationship

I encounter many clients who have dogs that are trained, yet the people can not get the dog to do that which the dog has been trained to do.

There are several reasons for this. Among the biggest hurdles that people face is that if they didn't train the dog themselves they will have a harder time with the dog. Most qualified trainers will tell you that YOU need to train your dog. Training starts with your relationship with your dog. There's an article on the site that I suggest everyone to read "Building a Relationship Before Training."

If you think you are going to tell your dog to sit and expect him to sit, and then get upset that your dog doesn't sit.... you have a big obstacle in front of you. Before you ever give a dog a command, make sure you have a solid relationship with the dog, connect with the dog - then start shaping and marking the behaviors you want.

Among the most common calls I get is people saying that their dog doesn't come when called. I'll ask what the people are doing to teach the dog to come, and the only answer people can give is I yell COME HERE. This is one of the most ridiculous things that I can imagine, but I guess I might be in left field here. People truly expect their dog to come when they call. Have they spent any time teaching the dog what COME means? Have they build a relationship with the dog that makes the dog prefer to be with them rather than away from them? I would say no. If they did, the dog would prefer to be next to them and the issue would not be "how do I get the dog to come to me?" In many sport dog training events we need to teach the dog to run away from us for a certain distance. This is one of the hardest things to teach the dog, since we've built a strong relationship with the dog and he prefers to be with us.

When you are ready to start with training, take a step back. Have you formed a solid relationship with your dog? Does your dog prefer to be with you? What is your dogs attitude when he is with you? The dog needs to be happy and into you and the training before you begin. Forcing a dog to do this will never work. If you want to use methods of yanking the dog around to get him to do what you want, that is another story. It may or may not work, however I've found that most dogs respond better to positive - motivational based training. That is not to say that I do not believe in corrections, I do. The point is that there is a place for both in good training, starting with corrections only sets the plate for a relationship in which your dog fears you and doesn't respect you. Respect is what we focus on primarily in training.... Being a wimp in training will not help you either. Proper technique will require a balance between firm, fair and fun. This is what dogs look for in a training session. Can you deliver that?

When Training Doesn't Work

Its been quite some time since I've updated the blog here on Black Belt Dog Training... The main reason for this is that I've been quite busy with some of the new articles that I've posted as well as training and working with many dogs, including those at the shelter through Bound Angels.

One thing that always seems to come to the forefront as a trainer / behaviorist is when the training does absolutely no good. It doesn't matter much if its my training or that of someone else (qualified that is), but the problem lies in the complacency of the people. I can pretty much tell if I'm spinning my wheels when I talk to a new client on the phone. Which is also why I am slow to take on new clients. If its just someone who wants to hear what they want to hear, or hire the guy with the reputation, I say "No Thanks." If you're not gonna do the work, you probably will never solve your problem. When you hire a professional, follow their advice. If you've hired them, your system probably has not been working. Your dog deserves a fair shot.

More often than not, I get the calls from people who's dogs are on their last hope. If my technique doesn't work, the next call is more than likely the vet to put the dog down or a short drive to the shelter. Nothing upsets me more than meeting this dog, seeing that the problem is totally solvable, and then seeing the people not do the homework it takes to change the dog. So often its a dog that bites or has aggressive tendencies. If this is directed at another dog, the answer is simple, keep the dog away from other dogs... Doesn't that make sense? Also, its important to realize that if a dog has aggressive tendencies, its probably brought on by the way you've raised him. In very rare cases it is a case of medical issues - but VERY rarely.

Most often than not, if a dog is dog-aggressive, they are not people aggressive. This is not a 100% rule, but its a high probability. Dog aggression is based on experiences or protectiveness. Its most often brought on by human behavior or a bad experience in the past. It is also not that hard to deal with, especially if its not directed at any dogs in your household, or re-directed towards humans.

I received a call recently from someone who's dog has just recently, mysteriously become dog aggressive. He asked my advice and I spoke to him at length on how to solve the problem. However, my answer was not what he wanted to hear. It seems that even if we fixed the aggression issue, the main problem remains that the dog "gets out of the house" and THEN attacks other dogs. I won't go into how stupid I find this, as it will do no good. This is one of those scenarios where certain people should not have dogs... and probably not children either. If you can't keep your dog contained, you've missed rule number one of responsible pet ownership. In a case like this, all the training in the world doesn't help. It doesn't help because the humans are incapable of the follow through.

The answer does not lie in sending your dog away so he won't be aggressive, as he won't be aggressive once he's trained. However, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will seek out the opportunity to get their way, and they will. Dogs require structure, its what keeps them safe... If you can't give them what they need, consider a pet ferret.

Balancing the Scales: Thoughts on training with rewards

There seems to be such a strong division among people about the right approach to training their dogs. The basis stems down to the questions of using treats or corrections. Truth be told, the most important thing to do is to first understand your dog, build a relationship with him and see what he responds to. Is it a treat, a toy, praise... whatever it is, it needs to be valuable for your dog. Using treats to train a dog is never a bad idea, as long as you mold the behavior. That is to say the dog must understand that whatever the reward is, that it is linked to you and his behavior. If this connection is made with your dog, then he will be well balanced. That being said, there are times when a correction may be necessary. Unfortunately most people do not understand the difference, or choose not to spend the effort to try and figure it out. Other than aggression, a dog should not be corrected (physically) for something that he has not been taught.

Correcting a dog takes on many interpretations. A correction can be forcing the dog into what we are trying to get him to do: i.e. pushing down on his behind to get him to sit, popping up on the leash, or withholding a food reward until he sits. The difference in the approach is big in the dogs mind. If you force him into the sit physically, he will learn to sit to avoid being popped on the leash or having his butt pushed down. Withholding something he wants will make the dog think, "what do I need to do in order to get what I want?" For the most part this makes the most sense in training. Its also important to note that pushing down on a dogs back to force the sit, builds resistance. The harder you push down, the more the dog resists, the sloppier the sit becomes. We want a dog that pop into position, not one that is forced.

My biggest concern in training is that the training must always be fair for the dog. It starts with this concept, and ends with this concept. Being a jerk to a dog creates a dog that has very little connection / bond with its owner.

The key thing to remember is that training must show structure and the trainer must maintain his position as the dogs leader / teacher. The key thing I've seen people err on the side of is the extremes. Most correction based trainers lack the compassion to "teach" the dog, and many reward based trainers lack the strength to give the dog structure and guidance. The well balanced trainer will give the dog both.... and all the while remaining neutral and focussing on the most important aspect of dog training: Never letting your dog fail.

Training should be the most fun activity for your dog. I never end a training session on a negative note, and if I am not in the right mental place to train a dog, I don't. Starting out with a bad attitude is going to make for a session that goes nowhere. If I introduce something new to the dog during a particular session, or if the dog is having an issue with a particular task, I will always end the session on a high note. That is either I will stop when he gets the new task, or I will stop the session by having him do something that he already does well. The end of a training session is a celebration where the dog is made to feel very special and ends with a special treat that the dog loves: treats, toys, affection, playtime, etc.