Dogs are creatures of survival. They find what works and keep doing it. Their behaviors don't change, they simply adapt. If they are heading in a direction of aggression, they will continue in that direction until it stops working. Dogs are masters of opportunity and will use this skill to push any behaviors that are not put into check.
That being said, I'd like to focus on this issue for this post. If a dog attacks another dog, and then does it again, it is NO LONGER and ISOLATED incident. If a dog attacks, bites or shows aggression on more than one occasion, its an issue. I can't tell you how many calls I get and how many clients that hire me after their dog has gone nearly off the deep end. People always think it was just an "incident." Often times these incidents stem from improper integration into a home, an owner who does not show the dog the structure it needs, or improper socialization on a leash. Whatever the reason is not important here, what I'd like to stress is that the behavior will not right itself on its own.
If a dog shows even the slightest signs of dominance or aggression, and please understand that there is a difference between dominance and aggression, it is something that should be addressed. A dog should understand that his decisions are based on choices that you allow him to make. Its not up to my dog if he can or can not meet a dog, that choice is up to me. Depending how he acts, he may or may not meet another dog. My dog follows my lead and because of that he enjoys great amounts of freedom. He understands by following the rules of pack structure and good behavior he get to do lots of fun things: he meets lots of friends, gets to run around on the beach, doesn't have to live in a crate in the house, and much much more.
Before a dog has the opportunity to make a mistake, it is important that the human has put some basic structure down. If the dog doesn't listen, he doesn't get freedom. When the dog listens to basic commands, he can meet people. Once my dog understands what NO means, he can start to see the world through a wider scope. I don't want a dog that will jump up on people and I say "NO," and he doesn't understand what that means. I don't introduce a dog to another dog, let alone a pack until I know he is balanced and will fit into the pack - and also to be certain that it is a balanced pack that I am introducing my dog into.
All of these things take time, but they are worth the effort. Once the initial work is done, you must continue to do your homework, because as I stated at the start of this post, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will look for an opening or a weakness to exploit. That is the key to their survival in the wild. However, when they live under our roofs we can take that survival drive out of them and allow them to function as calm - cool members of society.
If your dog acts out once or twice it is important to address the situation. I can promise you from experience that their wrongs will not right themselves. Their aggression will not go away.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
It Starts With Your Relationship
I encounter many clients who have dogs that are trained, yet the people can not get the dog to do that which the dog has been trained to do.
There are several reasons for this. Among the biggest hurdles that people face is that if they didn't train the dog themselves they will have a harder time with the dog. Most qualified trainers will tell you that YOU need to train your dog. Training starts with your relationship with your dog. There's an article on the site that I suggest everyone to read "Building a Relationship Before Training."
If you think you are going to tell your dog to sit and expect him to sit, and then get upset that your dog doesn't sit.... you have a big obstacle in front of you. Before you ever give a dog a command, make sure you have a solid relationship with the dog, connect with the dog - then start shaping and marking the behaviors you want.
Among the most common calls I get is people saying that their dog doesn't come when called. I'll ask what the people are doing to teach the dog to come, and the only answer people can give is I yell COME HERE. This is one of the most ridiculous things that I can imagine, but I guess I might be in left field here. People truly expect their dog to come when they call. Have they spent any time teaching the dog what COME means? Have they build a relationship with the dog that makes the dog prefer to be with them rather than away from them? I would say no. If they did, the dog would prefer to be next to them and the issue would not be "how do I get the dog to come to me?" In many sport dog training events we need to teach the dog to run away from us for a certain distance. This is one of the hardest things to teach the dog, since we've built a strong relationship with the dog and he prefers to be with us.
When you are ready to start with training, take a step back. Have you formed a solid relationship with your dog? Does your dog prefer to be with you? What is your dogs attitude when he is with you? The dog needs to be happy and into you and the training before you begin. Forcing a dog to do this will never work. If you want to use methods of yanking the dog around to get him to do what you want, that is another story. It may or may not work, however I've found that most dogs respond better to positive - motivational based training. That is not to say that I do not believe in corrections, I do. The point is that there is a place for both in good training, starting with corrections only sets the plate for a relationship in which your dog fears you and doesn't respect you. Respect is what we focus on primarily in training.... Being a wimp in training will not help you either. Proper technique will require a balance between firm, fair and fun. This is what dogs look for in a training session. Can you deliver that?
There are several reasons for this. Among the biggest hurdles that people face is that if they didn't train the dog themselves they will have a harder time with the dog. Most qualified trainers will tell you that YOU need to train your dog. Training starts with your relationship with your dog. There's an article on the site that I suggest everyone to read "Building a Relationship Before Training."
If you think you are going to tell your dog to sit and expect him to sit, and then get upset that your dog doesn't sit.... you have a big obstacle in front of you. Before you ever give a dog a command, make sure you have a solid relationship with the dog, connect with the dog - then start shaping and marking the behaviors you want.
Among the most common calls I get is people saying that their dog doesn't come when called. I'll ask what the people are doing to teach the dog to come, and the only answer people can give is I yell COME HERE. This is one of the most ridiculous things that I can imagine, but I guess I might be in left field here. People truly expect their dog to come when they call. Have they spent any time teaching the dog what COME means? Have they build a relationship with the dog that makes the dog prefer to be with them rather than away from them? I would say no. If they did, the dog would prefer to be next to them and the issue would not be "how do I get the dog to come to me?" In many sport dog training events we need to teach the dog to run away from us for a certain distance. This is one of the hardest things to teach the dog, since we've built a strong relationship with the dog and he prefers to be with us.
When you are ready to start with training, take a step back. Have you formed a solid relationship with your dog? Does your dog prefer to be with you? What is your dogs attitude when he is with you? The dog needs to be happy and into you and the training before you begin. Forcing a dog to do this will never work. If you want to use methods of yanking the dog around to get him to do what you want, that is another story. It may or may not work, however I've found that most dogs respond better to positive - motivational based training. That is not to say that I do not believe in corrections, I do. The point is that there is a place for both in good training, starting with corrections only sets the plate for a relationship in which your dog fears you and doesn't respect you. Respect is what we focus on primarily in training.... Being a wimp in training will not help you either. Proper technique will require a balance between firm, fair and fun. This is what dogs look for in a training session. Can you deliver that?
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
When Training Doesn't Work
Its been quite some time since I've updated the blog here on Black Belt Dog Training... The main reason for this is that I've been quite busy with some of the new articles that I've posted as well as training and working with many dogs, including those at the shelter through Bound Angels.
One thing that always seems to come to the forefront as a trainer / behaviorist is when the training does absolutely no good. It doesn't matter much if its my training or that of someone else (qualified that is), but the problem lies in the complacency of the people. I can pretty much tell if I'm spinning my wheels when I talk to a new client on the phone. Which is also why I am slow to take on new clients. If its just someone who wants to hear what they want to hear, or hire the guy with the reputation, I say "No Thanks." If you're not gonna do the work, you probably will never solve your problem. When you hire a professional, follow their advice.. If you've hired them, your system probably has not been working. Your dog deserves a fair shot.
More often than not, I get the calls from people who's dogs are on their last hope. If my technique doesn't work, the next call is more than likely the vet to put the dog down. Nothing upsets me more than meeting this dog, seeing that the problem is totally solvable, and then seeing the people not do the homework it takes to change the dog. So often its a dog that bites or has aggressive tendencies. If this is directed at another dog, the answer is simple, keep the dog away from other dogs... Doesn't that make sense? Also, its important to realize that if a dog has aggressive tendencies, its probably brought on by the way you've raised him. In very rare cases it is a case of medical issues - but VERY rarely.
Most often than not, if a dog is dog-aggressive, they are not people aggressive. This is not a 100% rule, but its a high probability. Dog aggression is based on experiences or protectiveness. Its most often brought on by human behavior or a bad experience in the past. It is also not that hard to deal with, especially if its not directed at any dogs in your household, or re-directed towards humans.
I received a call recently from someone who's dog has just recently, mysteriously become dog aggressive. He asked my advice and I spoke to him at length on how to solve the problem. However, my answer was not what he wanted to hear. It seems that even of we fixed the aggression issue, the main problem remains that the dog "gets out of the house" and THEN attacks other dogs. I won't go into how stupid I find this, as it will do no good. This is one of those scenarios where certain people should not have dogs... and probably not children either. If you can't keep your dog contained, you've missed rule number one of responsible pet ownership. In a case like this, all the training in the world doesn't help. It doesn't help because the humans are incapable of the follow through.
The answer does not lie in sending your dog away so he won't be aggressive, as he won't be aggressive once he's trained. However, dogs are masters of opportunity. They will seek out the opportunity to get their way, and they will. Dogs require structure, its what keeps them safe... If you can't give them what they need, consider a pet ferret.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Balancing the Scales: Thoughts on training with rewards
There seems to be such a strong division among people about the right approach to training their dogs. The basis stems down to the questions of using treats or corrections. Truth be told, the most important thing to do is to first understand your dog, build a relationship with him and see what he responds to. Is it a treat, a toy, praise... whatever it is, it needs to be valuable for your dog. Using treats to train a dog is never a bad idea, as long as you mold the behavior. That is to say the dog must understand that whatever the reward is, that it is linked to you and his behavior. If this connection is made with your dog, then he will be well balanced. That being said, there are times when a correction may be necessary. Unfortunately most people do not understand the difference, or choose not to spend the effort to try and figure it out. Other than aggression, a dog should not be corrected (physically) for something that he has not been taught. Correcting a dog takes on many interpretations. A correction can be forcing the dog into what we are trying to get him to do: i.e. pushing down on his behind to get him to sit, popping up on the leash, or withholding a food reward until he sits. The difference in the approach is big in the dogs mind. If you force him into the sit physically, he will learn to sit to avoid being popped on the leash or having his butt pushed down. Withholding something he wants will make the dog think, "what do I need to do in order to get what I want?" For the most part this makes the most sense in training.
My biggest concern in training is that the training must always be fair for the dog. It starts with this concept, and ends with this concept. Being a jerk to a dog creates a dog that has very little connection / bond with its owner.
The key thing to remember is that training must show structure and the trainer must maintain his position as the dogs leader / teacher. The key thing I've seen people err on the side of is the extremes. Most correction based trainers lack the compassion to "teach" the dog, and many reward based trainers lack the strength to give the dog structure and guidance. The well balanced trainer will give the dog both.... and all the while remaining neutral and focussing on the most important aspect of dog training: Never letting your dog fail.
Training should be the most fun activity for your dog. I never end a training session on a negative note, and if I am not in the right mental place to train a dog, I don't. Starting out with a bad attitude is going to make for a session that goes nowhere. If I introduce something new to the dog during a particular session, or if the dog is having an issue with a particular task, I will always end the session on a high note. That is either I will stop when he gets the new task, or I will stop the session by having him do something that he already does well. The end of a training session is a celebration where the dog is made to feel very special and ends with a special treat that the dog loves: treats, toys, affection, playtime, etc.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Dog Corrections
I think one of the biggest mistakes dog owners make with their dogs is the way they correct them. Before a human should ever correct a dog there are two important factors that must be met:
1. they must have established a relationship with the dog
2. the must understand how to deliver a proper and fair correction.
Because I find this such an important problem, I've written an article on Correction on the Black Belt Dog Training website. Click here to go to the training articles page.
The concept of correcting a dog is quite foreign to most owners. People see correcting their dogs as mean or unfair. Nothing can be further from the truth. People who understand the right way to correct a dog will create a strong bond with their dog. Those that do not will create a nightmare for both themselves and their dogs.
Enjoy the new article.
Best regards,
Robert Cabral
www.blackbeltdogtraining.com
Labels:
aggression,
corrections,
dog training,
obedience
Monday, July 6, 2009
Choosing a Dog Collar for Your Dog
One of the most common things that I am asked about is what is the best collar to use for your dog. There are so many choices that it can be a daunting task for anyone. I've written and article to shed some light on my opinions. You can read all the articles I've posted at:
I address everything from the haltis to harnesses, to choke collars, prongs and remote collars. One of the most important choices that you will make with your dog will be the collar he wears. An important thing to remember is that a collar is a second skin to your dog. I do not recommend using a collar to train the dog and then immediately removing the collar when training is over. Your dog should see you as the correction, not the collar. Collars should be work regularly by the dog before correction are given and should stay on the dog after the training is over.
This article is only scratching the surface on collar choices and theory, but its a good read to get your feet wet. I hope you'll enjoy it.
Best regards,
Robert
Labels:
dog training,
electric collars,
pinch collars,
prong collars
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Dealing with the 4th of July for the sake of your dog
Dealing with the 4th of July for the sake of your dog.
This is one holiday that is frightening for dogs, and also a holiday that leads to much stress and runaway dogs. Loud sounds are a trigger for dogs to run or panic. Fireworks, screeching, bangs, and other loud noises that are foreign to the dogs understanding elevate your dogs drive and can cause them to panic, run, become highly distressed, wet the floor, tear up things, pant out of control hide as well as other behaviors. Since it is such a sporadic thing there is very little we can do to prepare our dogs for the event but deal with it. Dogs can be trained to deal with it i.e. in police dog training or in training dogs to deal with high stress situations… However, our companion pets will need to deal with it, which means we should be equipped to deal with it for them.
Some things to bear in mind are:
1. If at all possible, do not leave your dog alone, especially outside during these events. If you must leave them alone, leave them inside with a TV or radio playing.
2. If you stay with your dog, don’t coddle them when they are scared. Be strong, talk with a normal voice and be indifferent to the sounds.
3. Have a TV or radio on to buffer the noise.
4. Keep the windows closed to keep the noise down.
5. Don’t take your dog for a walk during the fireworks.
6. Feed your dog long before the events start.
7. Give your dog a toy to play with, a bone or something to keep their mind off of what’s going on outside.
8. If your dog runs to you every time he hears a noise, don’t re-assure him with a soft – sweet voice. Use your normal voice and show him strength. Laugh and be playful. Be indifferent to what’s going on.
9. If you can keep the noise level in the house above the noise level outside, you dog may still hear things, but it will be muted and he may deal with it better.
10. Keep doors closed. This is one of the busiest times at shelters for runaways. Even if your dog has never shown a proclivity to run, this may be the time. Be Aware!
11. Some people like using a holistic nerve drop like Rescue Remedy. If you decide to give this, do so in small amounts and do it at least an hour before any events start.
The key thing to remember is that your dog sees things differently from you. If a dog has fear issues toward something you think is stupid, it’s you who is at fault not your dog. You cannot expect your dog to understand something he has no clue of, it’s not in his mental capacity. Pets are our responsibility. If you can’t step up to take the responsibility, consider a stuffed animal.
This is one holiday that is frightening for dogs, and also a holiday that leads to much stress and runaway dogs. Loud sounds are a trigger for dogs to run or panic. Fireworks, screeching, bangs, and other loud noises that are foreign to the dogs understanding elevate your dogs drive and can cause them to panic, run, become highly distressed, wet the floor, tear up things, pant out of control hide as well as other behaviors. Since it is such a sporadic thing there is very little we can do to prepare our dogs for the event but deal with it. Dogs can be trained to deal with it i.e. in police dog training or in training dogs to deal with high stress situations… However, our companion pets will need to deal with it, which means we should be equipped to deal with it for them.
Some things to bear in mind are:
1. If at all possible, do not leave your dog alone, especially outside during these events. If you must leave them alone, leave them inside with a TV or radio playing.
2. If you stay with your dog, don’t coddle them when they are scared. Be strong, talk with a normal voice and be indifferent to the sounds.
3. Have a TV or radio on to buffer the noise.
4. Keep the windows closed to keep the noise down.
5. Don’t take your dog for a walk during the fireworks.
6. Feed your dog long before the events start.
7. Give your dog a toy to play with, a bone or something to keep their mind off of what’s going on outside.
8. If your dog runs to you every time he hears a noise, don’t re-assure him with a soft – sweet voice. Use your normal voice and show him strength. Laugh and be playful. Be indifferent to what’s going on.
9. If you can keep the noise level in the house above the noise level outside, you dog may still hear things, but it will be muted and he may deal with it better.
10. Keep doors closed. This is one of the busiest times at shelters for runaways. Even if your dog has never shown a proclivity to run, this may be the time. Be Aware!
11. Some people like using a holistic nerve drop like Rescue Remedy. If you decide to give this, do so in small amounts and do it at least an hour before any events start.
The key thing to remember is that your dog sees things differently from you. If a dog has fear issues toward something you think is stupid, it’s you who is at fault not your dog. You cannot expect your dog to understand something he has no clue of, it’s not in his mental capacity. Pets are our responsibility. If you can’t step up to take the responsibility, consider a stuffed animal.
Labels:
4th of july,
dog behavior,
dog stress,
dog training
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